I type this entry from the back of a speedboat, overlooking the Mekong River as we blaze across the Cambodian border: Vietnam is just a blur behind me now. The lifeblood of South East flows through these rich veins: a wider river never before have I seen. I feel shudders and my hairs stand on end – maybe because the cool wet air is whipped up all around me – or maybe because I can’t help but think back to the magical cinematography of apocalypse now. Perhaps my demons wait beyond the Cambodian border; hopefully I’ll meet the deranged colonel - as I go on my own mission to seek and destroy my current experiences and replace them with new ones.
The banks of the Mekong don’t hold vicious foes and jungle any more, development has taken hold and now rural dwellings (on stilts) house old ladies and young children, while the mother washes laundry with a brush, along the fertile banks. The life on the river is a quiet one, and a beautiful one to observe, as fisherman and traders live out their purpose on the water. A life so simple may well be the envy of all western travellers: so far removed from the frantic struggle of work and the city.
The Mekong tour.
We opt for a $37 package including 1 day on a floating hotel and boat into Cambodia the next day, we later get blagged into upgrading ($5) our ticket to the fast boat (which may well be for the best as the boats are noisy and uncomfortable). The first day involves a lot of bus rides and coach travel, but we do get a stop off at the floating markets where we see local traders exchanging goods at wholesale on the water. We also witness the manufacture of rice paper and candy using traditional techniques – best of all we buy some tasty sweets and munch them later. The same place has a massive snake in a cage which they use to make belts and creams and various other weird things.
We enjoy a tour in the sunshine to an island in the delta observing many rickety bridges and dodgey structures. We stop here for lunch and the restaurant is a nice 10 minute cycle from the road on a rusty old beat up piece of junk, comically everyone wobbles around and struggles with their poor construction. At the restaurant the food is mediocre but we get chatting to some people off the tour, an interesting Canadian couple originally from Hungary and laid back dude from Spain who doesn’t speak much English but still has a good laugh and contributes to the conversation – we soon gel and enjoy each other’s company for the remainder of the trip.
After lunch we see people getting pictures with a monstrous beast of a python and go over to take some pictures. Crazily the bloke who unleashed the beast wanders off and tells me and Domingo that we have to put it back in the cage. We wrestle and shove the massive snake back into its cage – albeit with some pretty grimaced faces (i.e we shat ourselves) but in the end we managed it. It was one of those classic, one off, random moments that you can’t really orchestrate.
Later that evening we reach our hotel, which is mediocre, but sufficient – and we enjoy a lunch which is mediocre, westernised, but again sufficient. The company makes up for the lack of spice in the food and we all get along well. Tomorrow we have an early start at 6.30 so we don’t get too lary.
The next day we visit some local places in the morning, including a mosque and pagoda. The sights aren’t anything special but the locals invite us for tea and sweets for new years – and an 82 year old sage sits and chats to us for ages, even though we can’t understand a word, his hospitality is appreciated.
Next stop Cambodia
Monday, 31 January 2011
mission indogable
Mission Indogable
Your mission should you choose to accept it: seek out, find and consume prime suspect number one – the common domesticated dog. Fear not the reprisal of RSPCA jobsworths or animal loving Brits because you will be deep in the Mekong delta, where man’s best friend is more feast than beast – bringing a whole new meaning to the phrase “hot dog”.
Since our arrival in South East Asia we have been on the hunt of new experiences and gastronomic challenges. We have had the sparrow, the frog and various inedible pig parts, but the Holy Grail must be Park Ji Sun’s snack of choice the dog – or thit cay as it may be written in Vietnamese.
We read in the guide book that Hanoi has a whole area dedicated to the preparation and consumption of Fido, but pressed for time and put off by an expensive cab ride we neglect to visit it. We figure that we will see plenty of places throughout are stay and it won’t be a problem. Well let’s just say we tried doggedly to pursue this delicacy, often wandering the streets for hours trying to find him, peering in strange shops and making woof sounds to bemused locals, but we must have been barking up the wrong tree, as it was always without success. So thus on the final Saigon night we settle for a more conventional Thai style hot pot while we wistfully dream of dog. The meal was excellent – but it lacked the bite (or bark) that dog could provide. After weeks in Vietnam we feel beaten in our quest – having made a dog’s dinner of our only opportunity in Hanoi. So walking back to the hostel on our final night we look for a bakery when low and behold- like Moses’ burning bush out-shines a sign on the horizon. We are dubious but finally we realise this is it! Bahn mi Cay – or in our language “Dog Sandwiches”.
We are full from our Thai feast but cannot pass this by, so we order one sandwich and giggling, the young lady working the stall hands us a pre-wrapped bag containing a piping hot dog baguette. It only contained a little meat, but it was sweet and tasty like a strong pate. It actually really is tasty, so dog owners back home better watch-out: because I’m up for a dog curry ASAP! It wasn’t quite the dog steak we wanted but at least we snatched victory from the claws of defeated and can now officially agree – that, wherever you may be, eating dog is certainly much better than eating rats in your council house.
Your mission should you choose to accept it: seek out, find and consume prime suspect number one – the common domesticated dog. Fear not the reprisal of RSPCA jobsworths or animal loving Brits because you will be deep in the Mekong delta, where man’s best friend is more feast than beast – bringing a whole new meaning to the phrase “hot dog”.
Since our arrival in South East Asia we have been on the hunt of new experiences and gastronomic challenges. We have had the sparrow, the frog and various inedible pig parts, but the Holy Grail must be Park Ji Sun’s snack of choice the dog – or thit cay as it may be written in Vietnamese.
We read in the guide book that Hanoi has a whole area dedicated to the preparation and consumption of Fido, but pressed for time and put off by an expensive cab ride we neglect to visit it. We figure that we will see plenty of places throughout are stay and it won’t be a problem. Well let’s just say we tried doggedly to pursue this delicacy, often wandering the streets for hours trying to find him, peering in strange shops and making woof sounds to bemused locals, but we must have been barking up the wrong tree, as it was always without success. So thus on the final Saigon night we settle for a more conventional Thai style hot pot while we wistfully dream of dog. The meal was excellent – but it lacked the bite (or bark) that dog could provide. After weeks in Vietnam we feel beaten in our quest – having made a dog’s dinner of our only opportunity in Hanoi. So walking back to the hostel on our final night we look for a bakery when low and behold- like Moses’ burning bush out-shines a sign on the horizon. We are dubious but finally we realise this is it! Bahn mi Cay – or in our language “Dog Sandwiches”.
We are full from our Thai feast but cannot pass this by, so we order one sandwich and giggling, the young lady working the stall hands us a pre-wrapped bag containing a piping hot dog baguette. It only contained a little meat, but it was sweet and tasty like a strong pate. It actually really is tasty, so dog owners back home better watch-out: because I’m up for a dog curry ASAP! It wasn’t quite the dog steak we wanted but at least we snatched victory from the claws of defeated and can now officially agree – that, wherever you may be, eating dog is certainly much better than eating rats in your council house.
Saturday, 29 January 2011
The Reality of War
21st
Today we rise early and head to the infamous chu-chi tunnels on the outskirts of Saigon; it was here that Vietcong revolutionaries resisted America in a bloody conflict. The tunnels stretch for over 100km all the way to the Cambodian border – comprising of an intricate and complex 3 level arrangements with some tunnels opening up to schools, hospitals and kitchens. During the American war the whole community was forced to live their days underground and showed amazing resilience to survive.
The story and background is amazing and luckily we downloaded a documentary about the area a few days prior to get the picture; I say luckily, because although the day was entertaining I wouldn’t say it is informative. The gritty reality of the place has been replaced with a somewhat disneyfied version, the tunnels widened for fat tourists to climb down and a macho shooting range added, where you can fire guns for a dollar a bullet. Admittedly I enjoyed crawling through the tunnel and laughed as the tour guide joked about Americans being snared by brutal bamboo traps that were primitive but ingeniously effective at killing and maiming their foe. I even bought a few bullets and fired off a few rounds; and yes it was pretty good fun.
The truth of the place though is brutal, harsh and shouldn’t be forgotten. The reason the Americans couldn’t win decisively in Vietnam is encapsulated here – these people are tough, they have been at war with the Chinese the French and the Americans and they always gave more and worked harder and came through in the end. You cannot fail to recognise the resilience and determination shown by these people, people who crawled on their bellies “like worms” to absorb the last remaining breaths of oxygen in a dark humid claustrophobic dungeon, while up above the Americans laid waste to their crops and their villages to deprive them of food or aid. They ate tapioca roots and drank squalid water and died of diseases and hunger, all underground, but no matter what they never gave up. These people should be remembered respectfully – but instead the only hint at the sombre mood is a bizarre 60’s propaganda film that explains how these Americans “like crazy devils” came and destroyed the land. The tunnels are 100% worth the visit, but do some researching before you go or you might well miss the whole point.
Bringing the situation to light though is the war remnants museum (formerly the museum of American War Crimes). We stop here after the tunnels and quickly the sombre mood is everywhere. A look around at the visitors and their sullen faces and grave expressions shows you what you’re in for. This is reality, it is no bullshit hard hitting truth, and in war the truth is not a nice thing to understand.
We begin with a pictorial display of children with deformities – born to soldiers and civilians who were sprayed with Agent Orange in the war. Agent Orange is the strongest of several strands of chemicals of which 100’s of thousands of tons were sprayed on Vietnam, effectively in order to stop the country from being able to produce food or anything else for that matter. The countryside was literally obliterated, napalm burnt the trees, Agent Orange killed the wild life, and bombs stripped everything down to muddy holes in the ground. The effect on the ecosystem was severe, and the effect on today’s generation is still being felt. All around Vietnam you see children without arms, old ladies without hands and men without legs in wheel chairs. Some were victims of combat, but others are born with extreme defects due to the lasting damage of hazardous chemicals. To see each picture blown up, with a story of the families and the people effected – you would have to be a robot not to feel the emotion welling up inside.
The next section featured photographs from journalists that were killed in the war: most were American, some European and a few from the South Vietnamese side. The photographs varied in their content but all of it was brutally real and some were downright harrowing. Many showed American soldiers smiling as they tortured and killed civilians, one particular one that sticks in the mind is a GI holding up the head and torso of a man clearly blown apart by a rocket launcher: he has a massive look of triumph and success in his expression as if he was holding up the FA cup or some other prestigious award.
Other images which were even scarier were those of innocent people, often clutching children, in their very last moments of life. A caption reads below the picture, I told them to stop as I took my picture, but as I went away I heard shots fired and bodies slumping to the floor – I didn’t dare to turn and look.
The experience as a whole left us shell shocked and angry, it is easy to forget about the atrocities committed by the powerful countries, including our own, but this really makes the truth hit home. There should be museums in other countries like this, to stop anyone becoming involved again in such horrific conflicts.
Today we rise early and head to the infamous chu-chi tunnels on the outskirts of Saigon; it was here that Vietcong revolutionaries resisted America in a bloody conflict. The tunnels stretch for over 100km all the way to the Cambodian border – comprising of an intricate and complex 3 level arrangements with some tunnels opening up to schools, hospitals and kitchens. During the American war the whole community was forced to live their days underground and showed amazing resilience to survive.
The story and background is amazing and luckily we downloaded a documentary about the area a few days prior to get the picture; I say luckily, because although the day was entertaining I wouldn’t say it is informative. The gritty reality of the place has been replaced with a somewhat disneyfied version, the tunnels widened for fat tourists to climb down and a macho shooting range added, where you can fire guns for a dollar a bullet. Admittedly I enjoyed crawling through the tunnel and laughed as the tour guide joked about Americans being snared by brutal bamboo traps that were primitive but ingeniously effective at killing and maiming their foe. I even bought a few bullets and fired off a few rounds; and yes it was pretty good fun.
The truth of the place though is brutal, harsh and shouldn’t be forgotten. The reason the Americans couldn’t win decisively in Vietnam is encapsulated here – these people are tough, they have been at war with the Chinese the French and the Americans and they always gave more and worked harder and came through in the end. You cannot fail to recognise the resilience and determination shown by these people, people who crawled on their bellies “like worms” to absorb the last remaining breaths of oxygen in a dark humid claustrophobic dungeon, while up above the Americans laid waste to their crops and their villages to deprive them of food or aid. They ate tapioca roots and drank squalid water and died of diseases and hunger, all underground, but no matter what they never gave up. These people should be remembered respectfully – but instead the only hint at the sombre mood is a bizarre 60’s propaganda film that explains how these Americans “like crazy devils” came and destroyed the land. The tunnels are 100% worth the visit, but do some researching before you go or you might well miss the whole point.
Bringing the situation to light though is the war remnants museum (formerly the museum of American War Crimes). We stop here after the tunnels and quickly the sombre mood is everywhere. A look around at the visitors and their sullen faces and grave expressions shows you what you’re in for. This is reality, it is no bullshit hard hitting truth, and in war the truth is not a nice thing to understand.
We begin with a pictorial display of children with deformities – born to soldiers and civilians who were sprayed with Agent Orange in the war. Agent Orange is the strongest of several strands of chemicals of which 100’s of thousands of tons were sprayed on Vietnam, effectively in order to stop the country from being able to produce food or anything else for that matter. The countryside was literally obliterated, napalm burnt the trees, Agent Orange killed the wild life, and bombs stripped everything down to muddy holes in the ground. The effect on the ecosystem was severe, and the effect on today’s generation is still being felt. All around Vietnam you see children without arms, old ladies without hands and men without legs in wheel chairs. Some were victims of combat, but others are born with extreme defects due to the lasting damage of hazardous chemicals. To see each picture blown up, with a story of the families and the people effected – you would have to be a robot not to feel the emotion welling up inside.
The next section featured photographs from journalists that were killed in the war: most were American, some European and a few from the South Vietnamese side. The photographs varied in their content but all of it was brutally real and some were downright harrowing. Many showed American soldiers smiling as they tortured and killed civilians, one particular one that sticks in the mind is a GI holding up the head and torso of a man clearly blown apart by a rocket launcher: he has a massive look of triumph and success in his expression as if he was holding up the FA cup or some other prestigious award.
Other images which were even scarier were those of innocent people, often clutching children, in their very last moments of life. A caption reads below the picture, I told them to stop as I took my picture, but as I went away I heard shots fired and bodies slumping to the floor – I didn’t dare to turn and look.
The experience as a whole left us shell shocked and angry, it is easy to forget about the atrocities committed by the powerful countries, including our own, but this really makes the truth hit home. There should be museums in other countries like this, to stop anyone becoming involved again in such horrific conflicts.
Thursday, 27 January 2011
Saigon 19th 20th
Saigon 19th
Due to a hectic and busy schedule over the last week I have gotten behind with the blog therefore these brief entries will sum up the past few days concisely. I will need to explain in more detail the amazing impact that the war remnants museum (formerly named, appropriately, the American War Crimes museum) had on us. This is Saigon in a nutshell.
The streets of Saigon are overrun with motorbikes, even more chaotically than Hanoi! At times they command use of the pavements and the grass at the side of the street as well as every single lane, it is madness. The city itself appears so much more modern and westernised than northern Vietnam – which for all its problems (coldness, unfriendly people etc) felt so definitely Asia, with a unique character unlike the other places; Saigon is much more like Bangkok or KL and maybe this is why it is much more on the tourist trail.
The weather was excellent throughout our stay, hitting the high 20’s – it is remarkable that there can be such a difference in climate between areas so close together, the cooling influence of the china sea must be the explanation for this discrepancy. The climate could be another reason why it is so much more touristy, as I must admit the colder north was a bit less fun. The backpacker area is riddled with guest houses and happy hour bars to the extent whereby there are literally 100’s within the space of 3 streets! It is much more expensive here, and I struggle to find a guesthouse for under £7 which is my target. On my travels some fat yank says “ you ain’t gona find shit for less than 15$” - I say I have already been offered one for 12, to which he says “snap that shit up then” - however, as always persistence pays off and while searching the back streets a lady shows me to her house, and says we can have a room for 7$! I quickly take a look and see it is expansive and clean and has a hot shower, so obviously I snap it up! We later realise we have taken their room and see them and their children asleep on the floor downstairs in the morning. I feel a little bad, but when the little boy smiles and says hello you can tell the money makes a big difference to them and their lives, and I’m glad to stay with them than some guest house that won’t benefit anyone but a fat cat.
The bar’s here are more expensive but it is refreshing to see other westerners and hear some decent tunes, although we stick to our rule of eating away from the main drag where the food is invariably a watered down version of the real deal for twice the price. The first evening’s entertainment consists of the usual wandering around and checking out the area, completed with an amazing meal at the best street vendor we find in all of Vietnam, hot pot and 4 beers for 4£ - followed by a nice sleep in our rock bottom price room.
20th
Today we do some brief sightseeing in the town, setting off after the first nice hot shower for a while (unbelievably, despite the cheap room) and also after picking up our laundry (It feels so good to be able to get clean at last). We book some tours and have some brekkie, then we head to the reunification palace where Ho Chi Minh busted down the gates to signal victory for North Vietnam in 1975. The palace itself isn’t much to look at – resembling an old 60s school building more than anything, however interestingly, within, the decor and furniture has been left exactly as it was when Saigon fell in order to stand as a testament to the momentous day.
Afterwards we head to the zoo and history museum, stopping on the way for an amazingly cheap beer (7000D – 20p), it makes you realise that you get skanked as a tourist here. The history museum gives a good out line of the regions’ evolution, with art and exhibits all the way from BC to present. The zoo is mediocre, but for this part of the world very clean and not of a bad standard, the giraffes and orang-utan the definite highlight.
Later in the evening we once again enjoy a wander around the bustling streets, enjoying more amazing food (this time I get a legendary deer steak that tastes better than veal) and we also have a fair few beers from a rooftop terrace overlooking the bustling streets.
Due to a hectic and busy schedule over the last week I have gotten behind with the blog therefore these brief entries will sum up the past few days concisely. I will need to explain in more detail the amazing impact that the war remnants museum (formerly named, appropriately, the American War Crimes museum) had on us. This is Saigon in a nutshell.
The streets of Saigon are overrun with motorbikes, even more chaotically than Hanoi! At times they command use of the pavements and the grass at the side of the street as well as every single lane, it is madness. The city itself appears so much more modern and westernised than northern Vietnam – which for all its problems (coldness, unfriendly people etc) felt so definitely Asia, with a unique character unlike the other places; Saigon is much more like Bangkok or KL and maybe this is why it is much more on the tourist trail.
The weather was excellent throughout our stay, hitting the high 20’s – it is remarkable that there can be such a difference in climate between areas so close together, the cooling influence of the china sea must be the explanation for this discrepancy. The climate could be another reason why it is so much more touristy, as I must admit the colder north was a bit less fun. The backpacker area is riddled with guest houses and happy hour bars to the extent whereby there are literally 100’s within the space of 3 streets! It is much more expensive here, and I struggle to find a guesthouse for under £7 which is my target. On my travels some fat yank says “ you ain’t gona find shit for less than 15$” - I say I have already been offered one for 12, to which he says “snap that shit up then” - however, as always persistence pays off and while searching the back streets a lady shows me to her house, and says we can have a room for 7$! I quickly take a look and see it is expansive and clean and has a hot shower, so obviously I snap it up! We later realise we have taken their room and see them and their children asleep on the floor downstairs in the morning. I feel a little bad, but when the little boy smiles and says hello you can tell the money makes a big difference to them and their lives, and I’m glad to stay with them than some guest house that won’t benefit anyone but a fat cat.
The bar’s here are more expensive but it is refreshing to see other westerners and hear some decent tunes, although we stick to our rule of eating away from the main drag where the food is invariably a watered down version of the real deal for twice the price. The first evening’s entertainment consists of the usual wandering around and checking out the area, completed with an amazing meal at the best street vendor we find in all of Vietnam, hot pot and 4 beers for 4£ - followed by a nice sleep in our rock bottom price room.
20th
Today we do some brief sightseeing in the town, setting off after the first nice hot shower for a while (unbelievably, despite the cheap room) and also after picking up our laundry (It feels so good to be able to get clean at last). We book some tours and have some brekkie, then we head to the reunification palace where Ho Chi Minh busted down the gates to signal victory for North Vietnam in 1975. The palace itself isn’t much to look at – resembling an old 60s school building more than anything, however interestingly, within, the decor and furniture has been left exactly as it was when Saigon fell in order to stand as a testament to the momentous day.
Afterwards we head to the zoo and history museum, stopping on the way for an amazingly cheap beer (7000D – 20p), it makes you realise that you get skanked as a tourist here. The history museum gives a good out line of the regions’ evolution, with art and exhibits all the way from BC to present. The zoo is mediocre, but for this part of the world very clean and not of a bad standard, the giraffes and orang-utan the definite highlight.
Later in the evening we once again enjoy a wander around the bustling streets, enjoying more amazing food (this time I get a legendary deer steak that tastes better than veal) and we also have a fair few beers from a rooftop terrace overlooking the bustling streets.
Sunday, 23 January 2011
16th -18th hoi an
16th
Today we head out (hung over) on the bike and find the marble mountains down the coastal road past china beach. The mountains themselves stand isolated in the flat landscape, they aren’t so high so as to really be mountains, but they are impressively decorated with pagodas and statutes. We head up one of the mountains and enjoy views over the sea. Also, we see amazing statutes of Buddha carved into expansive caves within the rock, where worships burn incense and chant their prayers. It is very tranquil and beautiful, well worth a visit.
The 30km trip along the coast to Hoi An is scenic and enjoyable on the bike, although I could do with more power to take advantage of the long straight road. My bike struggles to reach 60km/ph but I guess in the interest of safety that’s for the best.
We arrive in Hoi An early in the afternoon and have a look around the quaint riverside village. It is a beautiful spot, but I can’t help feeling like I’m in Disneyland. It is so “traditional and authentic” that its a bit fake, every single building is hawking some kind of souvenir or bloody tailoring service. Still it is nice but i’m glad we make efforts to get off the beaten track and see some of the real Vietnam, even if it can be a bit more difficult.
We stop for coffees and lunch at a cheap cafe in a prime spot overlooking the river and famous bridge, then we take a stroll around town. The buildings are small and well maintained creating a beautiful appearance, among the houses and shops there are many ancient sites such as pagodas and small temples – the highlight is the Japanese bridge which is ornately covered with dragon carvings and religious motifs. It is a long way from the busy city of Danang.
In the evening hung over we search for a bowling alley without luck and end up spending time buying stuff at the market. Kath gets a new outfit and flip flops for £3 and I get a leather belt and motorbike helmet (with man utd logo) for £2. Dannang market is awesome – with fix prices on everything so you cant get screwed on the negotiation. We finish up with a chill at the hotel and watch the premier league – united draw 0-0 with totenham, a good result, especially given young rafael’s harsh dismissal, however we could hav e had more if we just went for the jugular early on. Annoyingly I have to make do with a stream on sopcast, which although not great – seems to work a lot better out here in asia.
17th
Today we head to stay at Hoi An – leaving our bags behind at the hotel and just taking a rucksack. Today I really enjoy the ride over, as I now know the route and can get up a little speed on the way. The weather also stays pretty fine on the way although we do get a brief downpour once we arrive. The road between the two cities is remarkably straight like a roman road which doesn’t make for the most exciting riding, however the sand dunes and rice paddies alongside it make up for a lack of riding pleasure with great scenery.
We have trouble finding a guesthouse around Hoi An – with everywhere charging 3 or 4 times our budget – however perseverance pays off and we find a wicked hotel on the outskirts (keit) with a swimming pool and deluxe balcony for 10$ (£6.50) per night! The only downside is the club down the road which bangs out no unlimited “ NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO – There’s no limit!” its like being 12 all over again! So much for romantic views on the balcony!
We decide to make a dash for it to My Son – the holy land, which is a long bike ride away and supposedly harbours some of the most amazing ruins and sculptures in Vietnam. I am more excited by the bike route though, sweeping along the river banks we cruise through endless green paddies and irrigation channels while ramshackle makeshift dwellings mark out local houses and inventive stores and shops among the fields. Remarkably, despite very shoddy directions and no map and numerous wrong turns, we end up on the correct highway motoring towards our destination. The highway is even more mental than the usual road, we have to adopt driving in the hard shoulder to stay clear of trucks and coaches while other less conscientious road-users park up in the middle of the lane or cycle their dilapidated bicycles along the high octane carriageways!
It takes almost 2 hours to reach my son and we are worried about travelling back in the dark, but in the end it is worth it, the scenery en route is beautiful as flat fields full of buffalo and rice paddies lined by rivers fade away into the contrasting mountains that rise dramatically out of nowhere. The diversity of the landscape is breathtaking and the valley of forest where the ancient ruins rest is simply stunning. The ruins them self are rustic, covered in moss and lichen and falling apart in places, however given they were constructed over a thousand years ago (using an ancient technique of brick without mortar) they are in remarkably good shape. They have appear like Inca ruins I have seen on documentaries – but with many carved images of ancient Cham gods. A perfect spot for a quick beer before we rush back to Hoi An before the light fades.
The trip back goes quicker as I now know the route and although the light is fading we make it back without incident, stopping en route at a grandiose paddle steamer (now docked and turned into high class restaurant) – it is like being on the titanic and the view over the river is majestic. It is one of the poshest and most picturesque beers ive ever had without the price tag – £1.25 being extortionate in this part of the world!
The evening proves to be equally as picturesque and spectacular as by amazing chance we witness the monthly festival to celebrate the full moon. If you saw top gear’s Vietnam special you will have seen the lanterns on the river, this is Hoi An’s special attraction as they shut down the town from motorbikes and cars, replacing the hum drum of traffic with traditional music and singing. The streets become flooded and Buddhist effigies are lit up along the river as colourful paper lanterns light up the lake like fire flies in the night sky. The overall effect is tranquil and beautiful and we toast to our good fortune as we enjoy a feast overlooking the river.
18th to Saigon
We have a night train in the evening so we head back to the hotel and pick up our bags, dropping off the motorbike with the random guy we hired it from. As I expected the cheeky fucker says I am late returning it, explain that in Vietnam days are 12 hours not 24, I disagree with his temporal analysis (being aware that time is a universal constant), I do, however, settle on giving him an extra 40000 dong!
In the process of returning the bike I send Kath to go and pick up the guys helmet from the hotel, as I have bought myself a customised man utd one from the local market. However, some confusion occurs and it seems Kath has taken the hotel managers helmet by mistake and given it to the bike dude. The woman doesn’t look too pleased when we try to explain the situation, particularly given she doesn’t speak much English and our Vietnamese is non-existent. I decide the best option is to grab our bags from reception and make a sharp exit before they get all kung fu on our arses!
We spend the rest of the day chilling and using the wi-fi in the local food court/ cafe. Kath gets back into painting and makes a good first drawing of a fisherwoman on the river – I am very impressed. A pretty uneventful day in all and not much else to report.
Today we head out (hung over) on the bike and find the marble mountains down the coastal road past china beach. The mountains themselves stand isolated in the flat landscape, they aren’t so high so as to really be mountains, but they are impressively decorated with pagodas and statutes. We head up one of the mountains and enjoy views over the sea. Also, we see amazing statutes of Buddha carved into expansive caves within the rock, where worships burn incense and chant their prayers. It is very tranquil and beautiful, well worth a visit.
The 30km trip along the coast to Hoi An is scenic and enjoyable on the bike, although I could do with more power to take advantage of the long straight road. My bike struggles to reach 60km/ph but I guess in the interest of safety that’s for the best.
We arrive in Hoi An early in the afternoon and have a look around the quaint riverside village. It is a beautiful spot, but I can’t help feeling like I’m in Disneyland. It is so “traditional and authentic” that its a bit fake, every single building is hawking some kind of souvenir or bloody tailoring service. Still it is nice but i’m glad we make efforts to get off the beaten track and see some of the real Vietnam, even if it can be a bit more difficult.
We stop for coffees and lunch at a cheap cafe in a prime spot overlooking the river and famous bridge, then we take a stroll around town. The buildings are small and well maintained creating a beautiful appearance, among the houses and shops there are many ancient sites such as pagodas and small temples – the highlight is the Japanese bridge which is ornately covered with dragon carvings and religious motifs. It is a long way from the busy city of Danang.
In the evening hung over we search for a bowling alley without luck and end up spending time buying stuff at the market. Kath gets a new outfit and flip flops for £3 and I get a leather belt and motorbike helmet (with man utd logo) for £2. Dannang market is awesome – with fix prices on everything so you cant get screwed on the negotiation. We finish up with a chill at the hotel and watch the premier league – united draw 0-0 with totenham, a good result, especially given young rafael’s harsh dismissal, however we could hav e had more if we just went for the jugular early on. Annoyingly I have to make do with a stream on sopcast, which although not great – seems to work a lot better out here in asia.
17th
Today we head to stay at Hoi An – leaving our bags behind at the hotel and just taking a rucksack. Today I really enjoy the ride over, as I now know the route and can get up a little speed on the way. The weather also stays pretty fine on the way although we do get a brief downpour once we arrive. The road between the two cities is remarkably straight like a roman road which doesn’t make for the most exciting riding, however the sand dunes and rice paddies alongside it make up for a lack of riding pleasure with great scenery.
We have trouble finding a guesthouse around Hoi An – with everywhere charging 3 or 4 times our budget – however perseverance pays off and we find a wicked hotel on the outskirts (keit) with a swimming pool and deluxe balcony for 10$ (£6.50) per night! The only downside is the club down the road which bangs out no unlimited “ NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO – There’s no limit!” its like being 12 all over again! So much for romantic views on the balcony!
We decide to make a dash for it to My Son – the holy land, which is a long bike ride away and supposedly harbours some of the most amazing ruins and sculptures in Vietnam. I am more excited by the bike route though, sweeping along the river banks we cruise through endless green paddies and irrigation channels while ramshackle makeshift dwellings mark out local houses and inventive stores and shops among the fields. Remarkably, despite very shoddy directions and no map and numerous wrong turns, we end up on the correct highway motoring towards our destination. The highway is even more mental than the usual road, we have to adopt driving in the hard shoulder to stay clear of trucks and coaches while other less conscientious road-users park up in the middle of the lane or cycle their dilapidated bicycles along the high octane carriageways!
It takes almost 2 hours to reach my son and we are worried about travelling back in the dark, but in the end it is worth it, the scenery en route is beautiful as flat fields full of buffalo and rice paddies lined by rivers fade away into the contrasting mountains that rise dramatically out of nowhere. The diversity of the landscape is breathtaking and the valley of forest where the ancient ruins rest is simply stunning. The ruins them self are rustic, covered in moss and lichen and falling apart in places, however given they were constructed over a thousand years ago (using an ancient technique of brick without mortar) they are in remarkably good shape. They have appear like Inca ruins I have seen on documentaries – but with many carved images of ancient Cham gods. A perfect spot for a quick beer before we rush back to Hoi An before the light fades.
The trip back goes quicker as I now know the route and although the light is fading we make it back without incident, stopping en route at a grandiose paddle steamer (now docked and turned into high class restaurant) – it is like being on the titanic and the view over the river is majestic. It is one of the poshest and most picturesque beers ive ever had without the price tag – £1.25 being extortionate in this part of the world!
The evening proves to be equally as picturesque and spectacular as by amazing chance we witness the monthly festival to celebrate the full moon. If you saw top gear’s Vietnam special you will have seen the lanterns on the river, this is Hoi An’s special attraction as they shut down the town from motorbikes and cars, replacing the hum drum of traffic with traditional music and singing. The streets become flooded and Buddhist effigies are lit up along the river as colourful paper lanterns light up the lake like fire flies in the night sky. The overall effect is tranquil and beautiful and we toast to our good fortune as we enjoy a feast overlooking the river.
18th to Saigon
We have a night train in the evening so we head back to the hotel and pick up our bags, dropping off the motorbike with the random guy we hired it from. As I expected the cheeky fucker says I am late returning it, explain that in Vietnam days are 12 hours not 24, I disagree with his temporal analysis (being aware that time is a universal constant), I do, however, settle on giving him an extra 40000 dong!
In the process of returning the bike I send Kath to go and pick up the guys helmet from the hotel, as I have bought myself a customised man utd one from the local market. However, some confusion occurs and it seems Kath has taken the hotel managers helmet by mistake and given it to the bike dude. The woman doesn’t look too pleased when we try to explain the situation, particularly given she doesn’t speak much English and our Vietnamese is non-existent. I decide the best option is to grab our bags from reception and make a sharp exit before they get all kung fu on our arses!
We spend the rest of the day chilling and using the wi-fi in the local food court/ cafe. Kath gets back into painting and makes a good first drawing of a fisherwoman on the river – I am very impressed. A pretty uneventful day in all and not much else to report.
dannag 14th, 15th
Danang 14th
The train journey from Hue to Danang is probably one of the most scenic routes in the world – certainly the best I have ever seen. The trainline hugs the coast as it cuts through steep valleys, mountain passes and endless rice paddies, providing a one stop tour of everything great about Vietnamese countryside. Even if you don’t want to go to Danang youshould probably get the train there and back just for the view.
Luckily the day was sunny so we could make the best of the views and we enjoy not being wrapped up warm for the first time. By the time we arrive its getting towards afternoon and by the time we sort out a room and get sorted its around 3pm. Therefore we enjoy a quick walk to china beach across the wide river and along the central bridge which incidentally is lit up like blackpool illuminations in the night time.
China beach was a famous R and R hang out when Danang was a big military base for the yanks and you can see why. The beach stretches into infinity along the city all the way to Hoi An around 30km away. The surf is rough and breaks heavily against the shore where newly built restaurants sit eerily empty in the off season. In the distance you can see hills covered in green vegetation and large statue white against the backdrop.
It is strange across the bridge in Danang: on one side there is the built up commercial hub of a typical Vietnamese city but across the river it seems that development is an afterthought. Vast swathes of land lie dormant and every buildings stands alone, 10 or 20 feet from it’s next door neighbour. It seems like some run down American suburb with wide boulevards and detached lots. It seems to us as if Danang has suddeny started trying to market itself to the new tourism industry that is catching on, yet at the moment it isn’t quite working. Golf courses and resorts line the beach but there isn’t a tourist in sight.
This however is a good thing as we enjoy not being surrounded by other tourists and feel we can gain some insight into the real Vietnam without swathes of tourists watering down the experience. In this vain we sample “local food” at a place called the food court in the evening: the meal consists of two strange pieces of paper within which you wrap ham and veg and then dip into some bizarre fishy sauce. We finish up with some beers and a posh cocktail and retire to our nice cheap hotel (which we found despite lonely planet suggesting they didn’t exist – up yours lonely planet).
15th
Today is a bit of a bummer, as it rains all day and our plans get thrown out the window. I hire a bike in the morning from a local dude for £3 a day and head out to find the “marble mountains”. This doesn’t goto plan as the road the lonely planet says to take goes all the way to Hoi An and we miss them completely. On the way back we get caught in a tropical monsoon so we dive into a bar and wait for it to pass, but it doesn’t so we head home getting absolutely soaked to the bone. So much for my intentions of exploring the area on motorbike.
We end up spending the rest of the evening eating and drinking in the refuge of a the food court in the riverside mall, which offers a massive range of local foods and views across the river. The highlight is a spicy baby clam platter which is so tasty and succulent and has about a million clams. Mmmmm clams. We spend a long time getting on the beers during the day and I feel like carrying the party on, so we head back to the hotel and hook up the speakers and stay up til about 4am (sorry to the guys in the room next door). We raid the hotel fridge for cans of larger which we pay for in the morning.
The train journey from Hue to Danang is probably one of the most scenic routes in the world – certainly the best I have ever seen. The trainline hugs the coast as it cuts through steep valleys, mountain passes and endless rice paddies, providing a one stop tour of everything great about Vietnamese countryside. Even if you don’t want to go to Danang youshould probably get the train there and back just for the view.
Luckily the day was sunny so we could make the best of the views and we enjoy not being wrapped up warm for the first time. By the time we arrive its getting towards afternoon and by the time we sort out a room and get sorted its around 3pm. Therefore we enjoy a quick walk to china beach across the wide river and along the central bridge which incidentally is lit up like blackpool illuminations in the night time.
China beach was a famous R and R hang out when Danang was a big military base for the yanks and you can see why. The beach stretches into infinity along the city all the way to Hoi An around 30km away. The surf is rough and breaks heavily against the shore where newly built restaurants sit eerily empty in the off season. In the distance you can see hills covered in green vegetation and large statue white against the backdrop.
It is strange across the bridge in Danang: on one side there is the built up commercial hub of a typical Vietnamese city but across the river it seems that development is an afterthought. Vast swathes of land lie dormant and every buildings stands alone, 10 or 20 feet from it’s next door neighbour. It seems like some run down American suburb with wide boulevards and detached lots. It seems to us as if Danang has suddeny started trying to market itself to the new tourism industry that is catching on, yet at the moment it isn’t quite working. Golf courses and resorts line the beach but there isn’t a tourist in sight.
This however is a good thing as we enjoy not being surrounded by other tourists and feel we can gain some insight into the real Vietnam without swathes of tourists watering down the experience. In this vain we sample “local food” at a place called the food court in the evening: the meal consists of two strange pieces of paper within which you wrap ham and veg and then dip into some bizarre fishy sauce. We finish up with some beers and a posh cocktail and retire to our nice cheap hotel (which we found despite lonely planet suggesting they didn’t exist – up yours lonely planet).
15th
Today is a bit of a bummer, as it rains all day and our plans get thrown out the window. I hire a bike in the morning from a local dude for £3 a day and head out to find the “marble mountains”. This doesn’t goto plan as the road the lonely planet says to take goes all the way to Hoi An and we miss them completely. On the way back we get caught in a tropical monsoon so we dive into a bar and wait for it to pass, but it doesn’t so we head home getting absolutely soaked to the bone. So much for my intentions of exploring the area on motorbike.
We end up spending the rest of the evening eating and drinking in the refuge of a the food court in the riverside mall, which offers a massive range of local foods and views across the river. The highlight is a spicy baby clam platter which is so tasty and succulent and has about a million clams. Mmmmm clams. We spend a long time getting on the beers during the day and I feel like carrying the party on, so we head back to the hotel and hook up the speakers and stay up til about 4am (sorry to the guys in the room next door). We raid the hotel fridge for cans of larger which we pay for in the morning.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)