Hey, everything is ok but been too bus to blog right now!
lots of madness and business - will try and catch up asap.
sorry
Tim
Monday, 28 February 2011
Thursday, 17 February 2011
Don Det - also known as 4000 islands - Laos
Don Det or 4000 islands, is simply spectacular. Perhaps the best scenery in Asia so far. Small Islands of incalculable numbers and in varying sizes litter the blue Mekong like green lilies on the world’s biggest pond. Unbelievably the Mekong is clear here and not it’s usual brown self – a sandy bed making for beaches and mud free waters! But the most amazing thing is simply the sheer width of this beast of a water conduit. It stretches as far as I can see and beyond. I find it impossible to realise that it isn’t an ocean or vast lake – easily the biggest river I have ever seen.
The scene on Det is as unusual as the landscape. People come here to chill, to recover after too many mad nights on the beach maybe: or more likely, after too many happy shakes in a row. There are bars, but they blend with the farms and dwellings, made of wood and bamboo and playing mellow tunes and good vibes. Accomodation is as abundant and cheap as the Bob Marley tune slightly drifting through the air. We land a spot with sunset views and shared cold showers for around $5.
We mostly just chill out and relax here: hiring bikes and exploring the islands in the day is also a good call. There are 2 waterfalls on the big island (don Khet) but don’t be fooled into just visiting the one closest and easiest to find. It’s more elusive counterpart is grander and less touristy, and the rickety Indiana Jones style bridge across the river is worth the trip alone.
We also float a mile or so down the Mekong in a big rubber tyre. Not many people can say they’ve done that now can they!
In a nutshell Don Det is a sleepy little island where everything closes at 11, don’t come here to party, but if you want to see some real Lao people doing some real Lao stuff and you want some quiet time to recoup and relax, this is a must do spot. Maybe the best place in Asia for me, just a shame we have to rush off so fast! 2 days is not enough.
The scene on Det is as unusual as the landscape. People come here to chill, to recover after too many mad nights on the beach maybe: or more likely, after too many happy shakes in a row. There are bars, but they blend with the farms and dwellings, made of wood and bamboo and playing mellow tunes and good vibes. Accomodation is as abundant and cheap as the Bob Marley tune slightly drifting through the air. We land a spot with sunset views and shared cold showers for around $5.
We mostly just chill out and relax here: hiring bikes and exploring the islands in the day is also a good call. There are 2 waterfalls on the big island (don Khet) but don’t be fooled into just visiting the one closest and easiest to find. It’s more elusive counterpart is grander and less touristy, and the rickety Indiana Jones style bridge across the river is worth the trip alone.
We also float a mile or so down the Mekong in a big rubber tyre. Not many people can say they’ve done that now can they!
In a nutshell Don Det is a sleepy little island where everything closes at 11, don’t come here to party, but if you want to see some real Lao people doing some real Lao stuff and you want some quiet time to recoup and relax, this is a must do spot. Maybe the best place in Asia for me, just a shame we have to rush off so fast! 2 days is not enough.
Monday, 14 February 2011
Bus from Cambodia Siem Reap to Don Det 4000 islands via stung treng
The bus from Siem Reap to Don Det departed at 5am, this meant not much sleep and a rough day ahead – as we were supposed to arrive at 5pm the next day. Given the previous day’s food poisoning and tiredness I could have done with a good night sleep. However, alternatively, I opted to stay up til 2.30am watching United’s hideous capitulation at the hands of Wolves : so to say I wasn’t in a good mood would be to gloss it over in a velvety smooth fashion. I felt like absolute shit. Kath had slept more, but no one likes getting up at 5am, especially when the “free pick up” consist of a tuk-tuk in the freezing cold morning, loaded up with 4 backpackers, which, when you consider they each are carrying their entire life in a sack – doesn’t make for a comfortable ride.
At least we have the VIP bus - erm.... Yeah so much for that crap, the bus is like a 10 year old out of service magic bus with less legroom than a rayanair flight! We swallow a couple of diazepam (bought at any local drug-store no questions) but these don’t help us get to sleep – they just make us drowsy and confused. The bus trundles along picking up everyone and his dog along the way; something makes me think they didn’t pay 16 frickin’ quid for their tickets! Children climb on the seats and others sit in the aisles, and every 10 minutes it stops to let someone on or off. So much for the bus with air con and a toilet.
We eventually stop for a break and get some instant noodles down us in a rush (the corner stone of every nutritious breakfast) – we then set back off, only to instantaneously pick up a puncture which renders us motionless for nearly an hour. Great – we just so happen to be right next to a resteraunt where I could of got myself some proper bloody food, grrrr... It takes them ages to fix the wheel and we get back going again, eventually chaotically swapping (and leaving our jumpers and my hat behind) to a more luxurious (but then Lester’s chinqochento would’ve been luxurious in comparison) coach. This one comes complete with DVD player and sound system. Great I think – until they start blasting out Cambodian kung-fu movies at full whack: so much for reading your book or trying to snooze.
The trip is tiresome, slow and uncomfortable, as we trundle along sandy tracks and precarious bridges; but at least we’re not going as far as some people we talk to – the unluckiest of whom is an American called Jason, who we discover is going all the way through to Vientiane (about 1000 miles or 2 days on half built roads!). Suddenly at about 4pm we reach a desolate little place, like something out of an American horror movie – a gas station, some weird stalls and few sketchy looking guest houses. Welcome to Stung Treng.
Without us knowing what is going on our bags are thrown off the bus and we are told to change over, so we grab our shit and make a swift exit. Except when we get off the coach skids off into the distance leaving us, confused, asking the guide/translator, just what the hell is going on. Eventually after some heated exchanges the truth is extracted. Basically, the bus has fucked off, the border is closed and you all have to stay here for the night and that’s all there is to it. Needless to say – we’re pretty pissed off!
Luckily we get a dodgey room for just 4$ and stike up convos with the other stranded travellers. I decide to make the best of it and organise us all to get some drinks and food together. The view across the river is actually pretty good and as we chat spirits all rise! We eat in a local joint – purchasing from them a bottle of “muscle wine” – cambodias best known export supposedly. But then the bottle also claimed it was fortifying and energizing. Im pretty sure it wasn’t lucozade but at 3$ a bottle it helps make for a cheerier evening. Unfortunately though, the young girl waiting at out bar is a little stroppy cow wearing pajamas and a scowl. She pretends to not speak English, she pokes us and she rudely orders us around, the bizarre pinnacle of which comes when we are told abruptly, “SILENCE” and are glared at intently as if to say, we really frickin mean it! Don’t try me. we got some guns in the back and we’ll gladly use them. Not the friendliest place then and this is only 8pm.
The whole place seems ready for bed when we leave but were not 8 year olds so we intend to stay out til around 11!!! We sink more muscle wine and chill on the balcony of our deluxe pad, when we’re finished the gates are locked and everyone is asleep. WIERD PLACE – but it is actually the fun of travelling, having such random shit occur and still havin a good time.
The morning and same same. Waiting for hours for the replacement bus, which turns out to be a minibus and oh wait, 10 people and only 8 seats! I don’t like sitting on a French dudes knee, but this is basically what happens.
Luckily the border crossing Is ok, visa issues no seat, although out driver tried to charge 44$ for a service that is 36, plus and unavoidable extra dollar from each corrupt official who meets you. Oh well. That’s Asia for you, in India it would be 10$ so its not too bad.
We finally get a seat in the new mini bus and continue on to Don Det. Wow what a blag. 12 hours has somehow ended up being 35! But then when in Laos you need to accommodate for the time zone change! LOAS time is something special, each hour is actually 2!
We still aren’t at out island, oh no, that is another ride on a rickety boat across the Mekong! One more hour then, and 4 more dollars! But yes! At 1pm nearly a full day late we have arrived.
THANK GOD ITS WORTH IT – THE PLACE IS THE BEST!!!!
At least we have the VIP bus - erm.... Yeah so much for that crap, the bus is like a 10 year old out of service magic bus with less legroom than a rayanair flight! We swallow a couple of diazepam (bought at any local drug-store no questions) but these don’t help us get to sleep – they just make us drowsy and confused. The bus trundles along picking up everyone and his dog along the way; something makes me think they didn’t pay 16 frickin’ quid for their tickets! Children climb on the seats and others sit in the aisles, and every 10 minutes it stops to let someone on or off. So much for the bus with air con and a toilet.
We eventually stop for a break and get some instant noodles down us in a rush (the corner stone of every nutritious breakfast) – we then set back off, only to instantaneously pick up a puncture which renders us motionless for nearly an hour. Great – we just so happen to be right next to a resteraunt where I could of got myself some proper bloody food, grrrr... It takes them ages to fix the wheel and we get back going again, eventually chaotically swapping (and leaving our jumpers and my hat behind) to a more luxurious (but then Lester’s chinqochento would’ve been luxurious in comparison) coach. This one comes complete with DVD player and sound system. Great I think – until they start blasting out Cambodian kung-fu movies at full whack: so much for reading your book or trying to snooze.
The trip is tiresome, slow and uncomfortable, as we trundle along sandy tracks and precarious bridges; but at least we’re not going as far as some people we talk to – the unluckiest of whom is an American called Jason, who we discover is going all the way through to Vientiane (about 1000 miles or 2 days on half built roads!). Suddenly at about 4pm we reach a desolate little place, like something out of an American horror movie – a gas station, some weird stalls and few sketchy looking guest houses. Welcome to Stung Treng.
Without us knowing what is going on our bags are thrown off the bus and we are told to change over, so we grab our shit and make a swift exit. Except when we get off the coach skids off into the distance leaving us, confused, asking the guide/translator, just what the hell is going on. Eventually after some heated exchanges the truth is extracted. Basically, the bus has fucked off, the border is closed and you all have to stay here for the night and that’s all there is to it. Needless to say – we’re pretty pissed off!
Luckily we get a dodgey room for just 4$ and stike up convos with the other stranded travellers. I decide to make the best of it and organise us all to get some drinks and food together. The view across the river is actually pretty good and as we chat spirits all rise! We eat in a local joint – purchasing from them a bottle of “muscle wine” – cambodias best known export supposedly. But then the bottle also claimed it was fortifying and energizing. Im pretty sure it wasn’t lucozade but at 3$ a bottle it helps make for a cheerier evening. Unfortunately though, the young girl waiting at out bar is a little stroppy cow wearing pajamas and a scowl. She pretends to not speak English, she pokes us and she rudely orders us around, the bizarre pinnacle of which comes when we are told abruptly, “SILENCE” and are glared at intently as if to say, we really frickin mean it! Don’t try me. we got some guns in the back and we’ll gladly use them. Not the friendliest place then and this is only 8pm.
The whole place seems ready for bed when we leave but were not 8 year olds so we intend to stay out til around 11!!! We sink more muscle wine and chill on the balcony of our deluxe pad, when we’re finished the gates are locked and everyone is asleep. WIERD PLACE – but it is actually the fun of travelling, having such random shit occur and still havin a good time.
The morning and same same. Waiting for hours for the replacement bus, which turns out to be a minibus and oh wait, 10 people and only 8 seats! I don’t like sitting on a French dudes knee, but this is basically what happens.
Luckily the border crossing Is ok, visa issues no seat, although out driver tried to charge 44$ for a service that is 36, plus and unavoidable extra dollar from each corrupt official who meets you. Oh well. That’s Asia for you, in India it would be 10$ so its not too bad.
We finally get a seat in the new mini bus and continue on to Don Det. Wow what a blag. 12 hours has somehow ended up being 35! But then when in Laos you need to accommodate for the time zone change! LOAS time is something special, each hour is actually 2!
We still aren’t at out island, oh no, that is another ride on a rickety boat across the Mekong! One more hour then, and 4 more dollars! But yes! At 1pm nearly a full day late we have arrived.
THANK GOD ITS WORTH IT – THE PLACE IS THE BEST!!!!
Angkor Wat - Cambodia - Siem Reap
Angkor Wat
The night bus from shianokville to Siem Reap is poorly constructed, to say the least. The beds consist of 2 seats strapped together – no sheets, blankets or any other such luxury. The top bunks are supported by a haphazard frame that looks welded together by Edward scissors hands, and every time the bus moves the whole thing squeaks like a metal framed bed in a Texas motel. We get the best (sarcasm) seat on the bus – right above the wheels on the bottom deck just to accentuate the claustrophobia. Kath’s face is right next to a hole that pumps in noxious gasses right into her lungs. Luckily when we stop I demand we move, but I feel sorry for the unfortunate Cambodians who are given our spot.
The new seats rock and sway even more with the motion of the bus and all in all it is a pretty horrendous journey.
So we arrive too early for a hotel room (6am) and crash in the hotels waiting room for a while. Eventually we get 2 hours sleep and head out to the temples via tuk-tuk. The first impressions of Siam Reap are impressive, I like the place’s character and authenticity, it feels like final we see some of the real Cambodia.
Angkor Wat itself is one temple among a complex of amazing structures that span over a vast area and provide an insatiable feast for the eyes and the min: as one ponders how such a thing could have been built so many years ago. Unfortunately it soon becomes apparent that I am suffering from some kind of illness – Initially I think sun stroke, but as the visits to the toilet add up it soon becomes obvious it is another bout of food poisoning! DONT EAT THE BBQ FISH!!! No matter how clean and westernised the resteraunt.
I manage to walk around the vast complexes but often must pause for breath and relax: this is what it must feel like for those massively obese Americans that pant walking up stairs! Not the best state to be in when viewing “the eighth wonder of the world”! Still the place is inspirational, don’t get me wrong!
The most impressive thing about the place is the size. The second most impressive thing is the age. We’re talking over 1000 years old and on a scale like the pyramids, 20 or so temples over 50 miles squared. It’s majorly monumental and gargantuan epic stuff. The temple at Bayon is an amazing myriad of large smiling faces, all greeting you with their happy and bubbling features. The level of detail is insane – with each inlay picturing a beautiful scene from the past.
The temple complex that I found most awe-inspiring was the one that is overrun by nature. Wise grey trees sprout immovably from the ancient stone – seemingly drawing all the nutrients they need from the spiritual energy of the monuments themselves. Roots literally delve into 10 feet high platforms of solid rock as sloping trees cling to the structure. How it all stays together is a miracle itself!
In the evening we explore the Angkor Wat temple, just in time to witness its incandescent orange hue in the sunset. The sight defies description, it’s size and magnificence simply leaving one breathless.
I wish I could say more but ill and tired I didn’t quite get the best of our day at the temples, but none the less it was an impressive sight and something that will hang in the memory for many years to come.
I stay up most the night on the toilet and needless to say feel like crap in the morning. Due to this the day is mediocre to say the least – the highlight being some BBQ snake and Crocodile in the evening when I finally feel better. Snake is chewy but very flavoursome, crocodile though is up there with veal as my favourite meat! I recommend it to anyone lucky enough to try it!
The night bus from shianokville to Siem Reap is poorly constructed, to say the least. The beds consist of 2 seats strapped together – no sheets, blankets or any other such luxury. The top bunks are supported by a haphazard frame that looks welded together by Edward scissors hands, and every time the bus moves the whole thing squeaks like a metal framed bed in a Texas motel. We get the best (sarcasm) seat on the bus – right above the wheels on the bottom deck just to accentuate the claustrophobia. Kath’s face is right next to a hole that pumps in noxious gasses right into her lungs. Luckily when we stop I demand we move, but I feel sorry for the unfortunate Cambodians who are given our spot.
The new seats rock and sway even more with the motion of the bus and all in all it is a pretty horrendous journey.
So we arrive too early for a hotel room (6am) and crash in the hotels waiting room for a while. Eventually we get 2 hours sleep and head out to the temples via tuk-tuk. The first impressions of Siam Reap are impressive, I like the place’s character and authenticity, it feels like final we see some of the real Cambodia.
Angkor Wat itself is one temple among a complex of amazing structures that span over a vast area and provide an insatiable feast for the eyes and the min: as one ponders how such a thing could have been built so many years ago. Unfortunately it soon becomes apparent that I am suffering from some kind of illness – Initially I think sun stroke, but as the visits to the toilet add up it soon becomes obvious it is another bout of food poisoning! DONT EAT THE BBQ FISH!!! No matter how clean and westernised the resteraunt.
I manage to walk around the vast complexes but often must pause for breath and relax: this is what it must feel like for those massively obese Americans that pant walking up stairs! Not the best state to be in when viewing “the eighth wonder of the world”! Still the place is inspirational, don’t get me wrong!
The most impressive thing about the place is the size. The second most impressive thing is the age. We’re talking over 1000 years old and on a scale like the pyramids, 20 or so temples over 50 miles squared. It’s majorly monumental and gargantuan epic stuff. The temple at Bayon is an amazing myriad of large smiling faces, all greeting you with their happy and bubbling features. The level of detail is insane – with each inlay picturing a beautiful scene from the past.
The temple complex that I found most awe-inspiring was the one that is overrun by nature. Wise grey trees sprout immovably from the ancient stone – seemingly drawing all the nutrients they need from the spiritual energy of the monuments themselves. Roots literally delve into 10 feet high platforms of solid rock as sloping trees cling to the structure. How it all stays together is a miracle itself!
In the evening we explore the Angkor Wat temple, just in time to witness its incandescent orange hue in the sunset. The sight defies description, it’s size and magnificence simply leaving one breathless.
I wish I could say more but ill and tired I didn’t quite get the best of our day at the temples, but none the less it was an impressive sight and something that will hang in the memory for many years to come.
I stay up most the night on the toilet and needless to say feel like crap in the morning. Due to this the day is mediocre to say the least – the highlight being some BBQ snake and Crocodile in the evening when I finally feel better. Snake is chewy but very flavoursome, crocodile though is up there with veal as my favourite meat! I recommend it to anyone lucky enough to try it!
Wednesday, 9 February 2011
Disaster strikes!!
THE DAY BEFORE WE GO TO ANGKOR WAT - THE CAMERA BREAKS!!!!!!
BOLLOCKS
no pictures now til we get to somewhere we can buy a new one.
BOLLOCKS
no pictures now til we get to somewhere we can buy a new one.
Shianokville
Shianokville – evening of 28th until 3rd February.
It’s EASY to get lost in this little beach resort on the southernmost tip of Cambodia’s coastline. Many people we spoke to had been marooned there on route to other places, and it’s easy to see why. The place is a perfect combo of a relaxed vibe, slow pace and plenty of nightlife. Throw this in with infinite stretches of beautiful white sand and cheap as chips beer and accommodation – and it doesn’t take a genius to figure out the appeal.
For us 4 days some morphed into six, and even then it took a real push to haul my arse off the sunny shores. After months of hectic motion, never in one place for more than a couple of days, it was blissful and serene to be stationary in this beautiful place.
The days, understandably, blurred from one to the other. Many a lazy hour shifting into the next as we rejoiced in some time to relax, read, and for Kath, soaking up the sun. The sun being my mortal nemesis, I took refuge in shaded comfy chairs, while I overlooked the fishing boats coming and going from the local pier.
The main area of serendipity beach comprises of endless bars dotted with sun loungers and basket wicker chairs for sumptuous relaxation. On the horizon you can see green islands teeming with vegetation and an endless blurring of blue, where sky and sea meet. The road behind the beach houses many complexes of inexpensive bungalows and some more upmarket hotels; but it is clear that development has yet to take a real stranglehold, and this adds to the chilled out character of the place.
We spent many days doing not too much at all, but I’ll detail some of the highlights below.
There is a fantastically illegal cinema in the town called “topcat cinema”. This place is a true revelation of laidback entrepreneurialism. The concept is simple: a big screen showing downloaded movies, really comfy sofas annd chairs, a stack of munchies and a fridge full of beers to help yourself to. The trustful owner then asks, upon your exit, what it is you had and on your honour charges accordingly. He also doesn’t mind me bringing in a nice bottle of wine, and for others that way inclined he doesn’t mind them blazing up a few spliffs as well. We catch Mr. Nice – not the best film ever but entertaining none the less.
We meet a couple of dudes called James and Dane while watching Murray getting his usual roasting in the tennis. The match is shit to watch but we get on with the guys and later hang out in the hip place to be “monkey republic”. The bar blasts out conventional indie hits and pop classics, but probably boasts the best playlist and atmosphere going. We have a good laugh and later make a mad night out at the only really lively bar called JJs. The bar is a slightly precarious wade across the rocks to get to but once inside it is a hub of activity. Pretty much everyone is blasted and some strange aussies have us doing press ups on the floor for unknown reasons. It turns out to be a messy but good night, with plenty of chaotic jumping around to pendulum and other such mainstream tunes. The Djs are pretty shite, dropping the same tunes more than 3 times – but I don’t think they understand the concept of a “set. This still doesn’t distract from the fun though, and it is obviously the place to be after midnight.
Food wise, the done thing is BBQ on the beach . this comprises a selection of 3 meats (pork, chicken , beef, fish, prawn etc.) with salad and chips, rice or jacket spud. It isn’t the most authentic but it’s pretty good value, although once again it reeks havoc with my digestion. STAY AWAY FROM FISH BBQ!! A good tip from Jonny was a local woman’s place called rosie’s, where a little lady serves up portions fit for an army, the fish and chips were particularly beasting!
Aside from chilling drinking juice and fresh coconuts (a whole coconut chopped up full off nourishing water) – we drink lots of beer at 50c (30p) a glass, and subsequently by the end are a little worse for wear.
We don’t venture much from the beach except from a mediocre island tour and a day of motor biking around. The islands themselves were worth the visit, with some beautiful tranquil beaches and a fantastic range of luscious palms and trees. However, the boat that gets us there is designed for 5 and carrying 20, one of whom is a bloke who weighs at least 25 stone. Hysterically, on several occasions, as he gets up, the whole boat nearly subsides as his humungous bulk tips the balance completely. The ponderous engine looks as if it was recovered from the ocean bed, covered in rust and completely exposed for all to see as it spewed out viscous oil and a cacophony of sound. We did get to do some snorkelling, but the equipment was about as much use as a diet pill on a fat yank, so all we got were mouths full of salty water and the occasional glimpse of grey coral and a tiny fish. Still sitting at the bar having a beer – 20 miles from civilization was pretty special and by the end of the day it was worthwhile.
We scootered our way to victory beach on the otherside of the coast, and enjoyed a more chilled out vibe – similar to Goa. We also ventured off road down the dodgey bumpy trails to the secluded and desert shores way beyond the resorts. This was great for a little relaxation, although I was sweating a bit when I bumped the bike on a massive pot hole and it started making some dodgey rattling noises on the way back. Luckily I took back without them checking (as usual) and made off with my passport before they could catch me! Stupidly I left my shades on the bike so returned to grab them, only to see some fatty rattling along about to take it out – I quickly reached over and grabbed my shade, shook his hand and legged it. God knows how I got a away without retribution!
There is a lot more I could say about the place, but also a lot less, all in all it was a perfect blend of fun and frolics and relaxation. I definitely recommend a stay here for anyone; just make sure you set aside enough time, because invariably people don’t want to leave!
It’s EASY to get lost in this little beach resort on the southernmost tip of Cambodia’s coastline. Many people we spoke to had been marooned there on route to other places, and it’s easy to see why. The place is a perfect combo of a relaxed vibe, slow pace and plenty of nightlife. Throw this in with infinite stretches of beautiful white sand and cheap as chips beer and accommodation – and it doesn’t take a genius to figure out the appeal.
For us 4 days some morphed into six, and even then it took a real push to haul my arse off the sunny shores. After months of hectic motion, never in one place for more than a couple of days, it was blissful and serene to be stationary in this beautiful place.
The days, understandably, blurred from one to the other. Many a lazy hour shifting into the next as we rejoiced in some time to relax, read, and for Kath, soaking up the sun. The sun being my mortal nemesis, I took refuge in shaded comfy chairs, while I overlooked the fishing boats coming and going from the local pier.
The main area of serendipity beach comprises of endless bars dotted with sun loungers and basket wicker chairs for sumptuous relaxation. On the horizon you can see green islands teeming with vegetation and an endless blurring of blue, where sky and sea meet. The road behind the beach houses many complexes of inexpensive bungalows and some more upmarket hotels; but it is clear that development has yet to take a real stranglehold, and this adds to the chilled out character of the place.
We spent many days doing not too much at all, but I’ll detail some of the highlights below.
There is a fantastically illegal cinema in the town called “topcat cinema”. This place is a true revelation of laidback entrepreneurialism. The concept is simple: a big screen showing downloaded movies, really comfy sofas annd chairs, a stack of munchies and a fridge full of beers to help yourself to. The trustful owner then asks, upon your exit, what it is you had and on your honour charges accordingly. He also doesn’t mind me bringing in a nice bottle of wine, and for others that way inclined he doesn’t mind them blazing up a few spliffs as well. We catch Mr. Nice – not the best film ever but entertaining none the less.
We meet a couple of dudes called James and Dane while watching Murray getting his usual roasting in the tennis. The match is shit to watch but we get on with the guys and later hang out in the hip place to be “monkey republic”. The bar blasts out conventional indie hits and pop classics, but probably boasts the best playlist and atmosphere going. We have a good laugh and later make a mad night out at the only really lively bar called JJs. The bar is a slightly precarious wade across the rocks to get to but once inside it is a hub of activity. Pretty much everyone is blasted and some strange aussies have us doing press ups on the floor for unknown reasons. It turns out to be a messy but good night, with plenty of chaotic jumping around to pendulum and other such mainstream tunes. The Djs are pretty shite, dropping the same tunes more than 3 times – but I don’t think they understand the concept of a “set. This still doesn’t distract from the fun though, and it is obviously the place to be after midnight.
Food wise, the done thing is BBQ on the beach . this comprises a selection of 3 meats (pork, chicken , beef, fish, prawn etc.) with salad and chips, rice or jacket spud. It isn’t the most authentic but it’s pretty good value, although once again it reeks havoc with my digestion. STAY AWAY FROM FISH BBQ!! A good tip from Jonny was a local woman’s place called rosie’s, where a little lady serves up portions fit for an army, the fish and chips were particularly beasting!
Aside from chilling drinking juice and fresh coconuts (a whole coconut chopped up full off nourishing water) – we drink lots of beer at 50c (30p) a glass, and subsequently by the end are a little worse for wear.
We don’t venture much from the beach except from a mediocre island tour and a day of motor biking around. The islands themselves were worth the visit, with some beautiful tranquil beaches and a fantastic range of luscious palms and trees. However, the boat that gets us there is designed for 5 and carrying 20, one of whom is a bloke who weighs at least 25 stone. Hysterically, on several occasions, as he gets up, the whole boat nearly subsides as his humungous bulk tips the balance completely. The ponderous engine looks as if it was recovered from the ocean bed, covered in rust and completely exposed for all to see as it spewed out viscous oil and a cacophony of sound. We did get to do some snorkelling, but the equipment was about as much use as a diet pill on a fat yank, so all we got were mouths full of salty water and the occasional glimpse of grey coral and a tiny fish. Still sitting at the bar having a beer – 20 miles from civilization was pretty special and by the end of the day it was worthwhile.
We scootered our way to victory beach on the otherside of the coast, and enjoyed a more chilled out vibe – similar to Goa. We also ventured off road down the dodgey bumpy trails to the secluded and desert shores way beyond the resorts. This was great for a little relaxation, although I was sweating a bit when I bumped the bike on a massive pot hole and it started making some dodgey rattling noises on the way back. Luckily I took back without them checking (as usual) and made off with my passport before they could catch me! Stupidly I left my shades on the bike so returned to grab them, only to see some fatty rattling along about to take it out – I quickly reached over and grabbed my shade, shook his hand and legged it. God knows how I got a away without retribution!
There is a lot more I could say about the place, but also a lot less, all in all it was a perfect blend of fun and frolics and relaxation. I definitely recommend a stay here for anyone; just make sure you set aside enough time, because invariably people don’t want to leave!
Saturday, 5 February 2011
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