25th - the killing fields

We wake up nursing a bit of a hangover from the night before, but soon get on track after a heary breakfast – mine consisting of a gigantic omelette, sausage and bacon – stuffed into a footlong baguette. We have arranged to meet our driver at 11, hence a lack of sleep, but we soon wake-up with the hot wind rushing into our faces. We have a sombre sight-seeing day ahead, comprising firstly of the “killing fields”, where the Khmer rouge callously murdered 1000’s of “revolutionaries” and secondly the prison where these people where barbarically detained and hideously tortured. If you don’t know the history of Cambodia (I won’t describe it all here) it has had a turbulent and torrid time. Dragged into the Indo-China war at the wrong time, bombed with wanton disregard for life by the Americans and then, economically crippled, left to the devices of various militant regimes. Of these, the Khmer Rouge inflicted the most harm, implementing a plan to create real hammer and sickle communism by disbanding the cities and creating a wholly agrarian society. Anyone who wasn’t complicit was branded as a revolutionary, tortured and more than often executed.
The killing fields themselves are an interesting 45 minute ride out of town. The site is an unfittingly beautiful garden, nestling among farmland and trees; it is almost impossible to imagine the inhuman reality of what occurred on this now quiet land. As you read the blunt notices “this was where prisoners were kept for up to 24 hours awaiting execution” you cannot help but detach yourself from reality, as school children shout “hello, how are you” from behind the fences. If only the trees could speak, the solemnity and horror of what we would be told could make the most iron-stomached sadist wretch – as we learn that to save bullets the prisoners were usually beaten to death. At the centre of the place lies the ultimate monument to the departed – a beautifully crafted oriental tower, within which are housed, to hit home the brutal truth, the fractured skulls of the many victims.
The prison is not so deceptive in it’s appearance. A modern school made of concrete; it stands as it was in its hay-day, grim and solemn, almost untouched by the passage of time. The alarming thing is how not-old it all looks; giving a harrowing reminder of how recently these terrible events occurred. The rooms themselves are bare and unadorned, except for gruesome pictures which show the state of the final victims who were found, disfigured, tied to the beds upon the prison’s liberation. Barbed wire still engulfs some of the buildings, a caption reads, ‘barbed wire was placed to ensure prisoners could not jump and commit suicide’. My mouth goes dry and I feel uneasy, observing blood stains and bullet holes on the walls.
Endless rows of mug-shots show the wretchedly defeated victims, their solemn expressions representative of an acknowledgement of their pending fate. I looked each on in the eye and felt compassion and disgust for what happened here. Where were we to help these people? Nowhere is the answer, as I learn that the west backed the Khmer Rouge with funding and weapons when they were overthrown in a military Coup.
Anyway enough of that grim stuff – you gotta’ take it in but try and put it to the back of your mind or else you’ll go mad.
Therefore, despite the sombre days entertainment, we take solace in each-other’s company and ease the stress with a few beers. Jonny comes down to our neck of the woods and we meet some Swedes and have a good laugh, ultimately staying on it – once again to the early hours. I just about save face and beat a girl called Freda at pool, although John-Boy ultimately gives me a good roasting.
By the end of the night we are pretty sloshed and I have to reason with the taxi guy to make sure he gets Jonny home safely. We are sad to part company and to have only been able to meet so briefly. It has tough been a great couple of days, with some sobering reality and some brilliant fun. I wish more of our friends could be here; as there is so much experience to share and enjoy. One day we will all get on it together but until then this blog will have to do!
We miss you guys!!!!!
Peace out!