Shianokville

Shianokville – evening of 28th until 3rd February.
It’s EASY to get lost in this little beach resort on the southernmost tip of Cambodia’s coastline. Many people we spoke to had been marooned there on route to other places, and it’s easy to see why. The place is a perfect combo of a relaxed vibe, slow pace and plenty of nightlife. Throw this in with infinite stretches of beautiful white sand and cheap as chips beer and accommodation – and it doesn’t take a genius to figure out the appeal.
For us 4 days some morphed into six, and even then it took a real push to haul my arse off the sunny shores. After months of hectic motion, never in one place for more than a couple of days, it was blissful and serene to be stationary in this beautiful place.
The days, understandably, blurred from one to the other. Many a lazy hour shifting into the next as we rejoiced in some time to relax, read, and for Kath, soaking up the sun. The sun being my mortal nemesis, I took refuge in shaded comfy chairs, while I overlooked the fishing boats coming and going from the local pier.
The main area of serendipity beach comprises of endless bars dotted with sun loungers and basket wicker chairs for sumptuous relaxation. On the horizon you can see green islands teeming with vegetation and an endless blurring of blue, where sky and sea meet. The road behind the beach houses many complexes of inexpensive bungalows and some more upmarket hotels; but it is clear that development has yet to take a real stranglehold, and this adds to the chilled out character of the place.
We spent many days doing not too much at all, but I’ll detail some of the highlights below.
There is a fantastically illegal cinema in the town called “topcat cinema”. This place is a true revelation of laidback entrepreneurialism. The concept is simple: a big screen showing downloaded movies, really comfy sofas annd chairs, a stack of munchies and a fridge full of beers to help yourself to. The trustful owner then asks, upon your exit, what it is you had and on your honour charges accordingly. He also doesn’t mind me bringing in a nice bottle of wine, and for others that way inclined he doesn’t mind them blazing up a few spliffs as well. We catch Mr. Nice – not the best film ever but entertaining none the less.
We meet a couple of dudes called James and Dane while watching Murray getting his usual roasting in the tennis. The match is shit to watch but we get on with the guys and later hang out in the hip place to be “monkey republic”. The bar blasts out conventional indie hits and pop classics, but probably boasts the best playlist and atmosphere going. We have a good laugh and later make a mad night out at the only really lively bar called JJs. The bar is a slightly precarious wade across the rocks to get to but once inside it is a hub of activity. Pretty much everyone is blasted and some strange aussies have us doing press ups on the floor for unknown reasons. It turns out to be a messy but good night, with plenty of chaotic jumping around to pendulum and other such mainstream tunes. The Djs are pretty shite, dropping the same tunes more than 3 times – but I don’t think they understand the concept of a “set. This still doesn’t distract from the fun though, and it is obviously the place to be after midnight.
Food wise, the done thing is BBQ on the beach . this comprises a selection of 3 meats (pork, chicken , beef, fish, prawn etc.) with salad and chips, rice or jacket spud. It isn’t the most authentic but it’s pretty good value, although once again it reeks havoc with my digestion. STAY AWAY FROM FISH BBQ!! A good tip from Jonny was a local woman’s place called rosie’s, where a little lady serves up portions fit for an army, the fish and chips were particularly beasting!
Aside from chilling drinking juice and fresh coconuts (a whole coconut chopped up full off nourishing water) – we drink lots of beer at 50c (30p) a glass, and subsequently by the end are a little worse for wear.
We don’t venture much from the beach except from a mediocre island tour and a day of motor biking around. The islands themselves were worth the visit, with some beautiful tranquil beaches and a fantastic range of luscious palms and trees. However, the boat that gets us there is designed for 5 and carrying 20, one of whom is a bloke who weighs at least 25 stone. Hysterically, on several occasions, as he gets up, the whole boat nearly subsides as his humungous bulk tips the balance completely. The ponderous engine looks as if it was recovered from the ocean bed, covered in rust and completely exposed for all to see as it spewed out viscous oil and a cacophony of sound. We did get to do some snorkelling, but the equipment was about as much use as a diet pill on a fat yank, so all we got were mouths full of salty water and the occasional glimpse of grey coral and a tiny fish. Still sitting at the bar having a beer – 20 miles from civilization was pretty special and by the end of the day it was worthwhile.
We scootered our way to victory beach on the otherside of the coast, and enjoyed a more chilled out vibe – similar to Goa. We also ventured off road down the dodgey bumpy trails to the secluded and desert shores way beyond the resorts. This was great for a little relaxation, although I was sweating a bit when I bumped the bike on a massive pot hole and it started making some dodgey rattling noises on the way back. Luckily I took back without them checking (as usual) and made off with my passport before they could catch me! Stupidly I left my shades on the bike so returned to grab them, only to see some fatty rattling along about to take it out – I quickly reached over and grabbed my shade, shook his hand and legged it. God knows how I got a away without retribution!
There is a lot more I could say about the place, but also a lot less, all in all it was a perfect blend of fun and frolics and relaxation. I definitely recommend a stay here for anyone; just make sure you set aside enough time, because invariably people don’t want to leave!