Kuala Lumpur Dec 27th
The name of city is derived from the fact that it stands where two rivers meet and then become muddy and murky from all the sediment that is deposited. However the city is far from muddy – it is similar to Singapore, high tech and modern, remarkably also – everyone speaks English and there are KFC’s and Mac D’s everywhere! Not what I was expecting from Malaysia.
We have a disaster upon arrival – we try to withdraw cash from about 30 different cash machines in the train station and everyone is coming back declined. We begin to worry our account has been frozen or frauded and we’re stuck with no cash and no idea what to do – the situation only made worse by smack my bitch up being randomly repeated over the station tanoy. Luckily, I brought some sterling for such eventualities but I really didn’t want to tap into it already: It’s pretty stressful arriving within a foreign unknown country at 7am with no cash though, so we bite the bullet and get some cash changed. We later learn that the fact the card isn’t working is a stupid rule that you can only withdraw twice in 24 hours; at least it’s nothing major!
We head to some random hostels I have the flyer for and get a decent room for just over a tenner (70 ringgits): it’s a nice place with a tropical motif and beach hut feel, although the room stinks of wee a bit but it’s not too bad. We drop our bags and head off as usual with no idea what to expect. The hostel is near the Times Square area (I’m sure they nicked the idea from N.Y) and the streets are very colourful and active. There are massage parlours and fish spas (where fish eat the dead skin on your feet – yummy) and many boutiques and shops selling knock off designer clothes and sun glasses, we bypass these but stop in Mac D’s for the obligatory coffee.
KL has an amazing transport system and after another pick and mix lunch we get a bus for 1 ringgit (20p), we find out the buses are 1R flat rate which is pretty good it seems once again our money is worth something . We head to the central market area and are greeted by bustling streets that seem a combo of India and Singapore, to Kath’s delight she manages to order a Chai at the Indian food court – there is a real blend of culture here with Indian, Chinese and European all mixed together to create a cosmopolitan feel (although it is predominantly Muslim the dress and attitudes seem much less traditional than India).
The market is a bit touristy and prices high so we walk through and head along the river exploring the tourist trial. There are amazing blends of architecture that parallel the blend of people, with mosque style domes and minarets often seen across from 19th century British buildings the highlight of which is a club house and cricket pavilion that sits among the high rises. Another amazing structure is an Indian style skyscraper in imitation white marble with no windows – just cut out patterns reminiscent of those seen on the Taj: very unique.
We head now to an area of gardens on the periphery of the city, it is a good long walk but worthwhile, as acres of greenery and flower beds span across the length of the city – excellent for relaxation in the muggy tropical weather. We stumble across an aviary but pass because of the entrance fee, we also pass an observatory and Islamic museum but unfortunately we learn everything is closed on Monday which sucks. We do get to explore the amazingly modern National Mosque which is an amazing blend of modern and traditional architecture – and offers good views over the urban vista. We have to don silly purple cloaks to adhere to tradition (or maybe just because they like to make the tourists look like pricks).
We head now to the national museum and learn something about Malaysian history and culture, the funniest exhibit being a beat up proton car from the year we were born (1985). It’s been a long day as we arrived so early and we’ve walked for miles, so we head to china town for some relaxation – on the way we see an amazing hindu pagoda, much more impressive than that in Singapore. The colourful deities and paintings stand out from anything I have seen before – as do the men wearing Tarzan style loin cloths lazing beneath their Gods.
For dinner we find an authentic local food court and get some exciting soups, mine is particularly interesting, coming in classic Malay styleon an iron hot plate (still sizzling) and complete with chunky bits of on the bone chicken and a fried egg in a thick black sauce: not bad for a quid (5R). We finish up with a few beers (not so cheap but more affordable) and mix cheap local gin with sprite, listening to tunes by the hostel. I also catch united highlights in the local bar, and see Anderson and berba tearing it up at snowy OT.
Dec28th KL day 2
We decide to stay an extra day in KL mainly just to see the Petronas towers which were closed yesterday, also the night life seemed pretty cool – with everyone hitting the streets at about 10-11pm, which is something we haven’t seen before. Things don’t exactly go to plan though, it rains again all day long, making everything pretty difficult. It’s not so bad when it rains as it is still warm, but occasionally the downpours come so heavy that two or three minutes will soak you to the bone, especially given that your usually wearing shorts and a vest. It’s pretty annoying because it’s so hot when you’re walking about but if it catches you you’re screwed. Anyway, we spend most of the morning/early afternoon just sorting out future tickets and travel arrangements. Good job too, because the coach station is out of action and a temporary station on the outskirts houses the ticket offices – I buy a ticket here for tomorrows coach.
We spend the afternoon checking out the shopping mall at times square, pretty cool with over ten floors, the highlights of which are arcades where you can play for 20p a game and an indoor theme park (although we can’t pay for entry as were too late in the day), the indoor rollercoaster is pretty cool to watch going by. We get the metro to the Petronas towers which are beautiful, even more so in the night. The layered metallic surface is light up to form beautiful concentric rings which rise meteorically from the ground upwards. One of these towers would be magnificent but the two perfectly symmetrical structures joined by a bridge create a truly unique and awesome vision: the X of the bridges support adding to the perfect duplication. They shine in the night like no other building I have ever seen; maybe they’re not the tallest buildings in the world, but they are definitely the most fantastic modern man-made structures I have ever seen. Unfortunately we can’t go up as it is closed at 7 which is a real bummer, even worse it starts hammering down and we get drenched. The only positive is the food court within, which you would think would be a rip off, given that the mall has chanel and harrods and Armani stores – however I get a gorgeously spicy claypot chicken (that shits on sweet mandarin’s) for 6.50! (£1.30).
We head back to our neck of the woods to sample the nightlife, except its still pissing down and we have to jump in a taxi. The people it seems have hidden away indoors, still we have some top nosh, squid in oyster sauce and Kath goes for Frog Porridge which is what it sounds like. Bizarre gloopy glutinous rice porridge comes with a spicy black sauce that is so thick it sticks to the tub. Within this fiery tar come the little deep fried frog’s legs; think of them as tiny chicken wings – nice flavour but with a little more gamey tone like rabbit. Another new experience and not bad for a couple of quid. We can’t find any decent bars again – so we get shisha and drink some gin on the cheap while watching Tottenham vs Newcastle.
Friday, 31 December 2010
Thursday, 30 December 2010
Singapore Xmas 2010
Christmas Day
We awake to sweaty muggy heat and a room full of random people we don’t know – no stockings and presents – its seems like Santa skips off Singapore when he’s doing his rounds. We don’t need presents though, this whole journey is better than any gift we could have and waking up to sunshine everyday beats a brand new ps3. We get our stuff together and head across town to lavender on the MRT as we have booked in to the drop inn so we can have a nicer private room. I stop on the way at an awesome food court where we get brunch. There are a lot of stands that do a kind of Malay pick and mix where you get a big chunk of rice then you select various meat or veg dishes to accompany it and you pay a small amount for each selection. I get an awesome chicken and pork one, along with some vegetables all for 3$ (£1.50). The hostel is a long way from the station and it takes a while with our bags, the area is very different with a few banks and office buildings and much less nightlife, but still a pretty decent spot.
We c heck in and make use of free wi-fi, watching the final apprentice and sending e-mails etc. The hostel is pretty cool with a good chill out area ad friendly staff. They also let us buy beer from across the road and drink it in there which is good. I’m determined to have a few beers (come on it’s Christmas!) Even if it is super expensive! Around 3 we set off into the city to enjoy Christmas day – I stop at the shops on the way to pick up beers and drink them en route – I make sure I don’t take them on the train though, I’ve already been rollocked twice for trying to have a sip of water, it’s probably the death penalty for beer on the tube!
We head to the Marina bay sands hotel as we have decided to splash out and enjoy ourselves given that it’s Christmas. On the way the skies begin to darken and It looks as if another thunder storm could be on the way. We begrudgingly part with our $40 4ntry fee and head to the elevators to go to the roof. The view from the top doesn’t disappoint – the skyscrapers across the water slowly begin to shine as the daylight fades – lit up they are incandescent testaments to singapore’s wealth and success. The scene is dramatic as orange light turns into sinister dark cloud and thunder and lightning cracks on the horizon. Suddenly the heavens open and the sky flashes and a full on storms breaks loose, a bit scary when you’re in a garden in the sky. We are ushered away from the open areas and forced to seek refuge in the corridors and halls leading between the various areas. Here we see an amazing swimming pool that edges onto the horizon, literally going all the way to the precipice! On looking tourists and ourselves dream that one day we can afford to stay in the hotel and swim there. As the storm worsens and is unrelenting we eventually rush back down to ground level anlong with other disgruntled tourists, we however are delighted – as soon as it started thundering I prayed it would continue, the reason being as our visit was cut short we are entitled to a full refund, and that meant we could afford the luxury of a beer in a bar! Merry Christmas!!
We made the romantic walk back along the bridge and to the Merlion where we were due to eat our Christmas dinner- lightning dramatically flashing across the skyline at regular intervals. We had an amazing view right on the dock where the boats go and the merlion spits water into the bay. The food was good too, roast turkey with stuffing and vegetables, presented in a gourmet style – the only downside was that when I asked for cranberry sauce we just got a bemused look of confusion, still plenty of gravy did the trick and it was top notch, and no washing up! For pudding we had traditional Christmas pudding and custard and it was the highlight of the whole day for me – lush and moist and rich with brandy it was a delight, I ate mine and half of Kath’s and I could have had more! Polish it off with a black coffee and it was a brilliant Christmas dinner in the best setting ever, the storm around us adding to the excitement and atmosphere.
We finished up with a boat ride in the rain to the quayside, the boat captain allowing us the opportunity to drive the boat and pose for photos, sadly though all the pictures were munched by windows #(bummer) so this account while have to help our memory of the night. Due to the rain the bars were quite dead and we end up having a drink in the man utd cafe as it is the cheapest place around and I like looking at the signed shirts and memorabilia. We finish up with drinks back at the hotel – me pushing the boat out for a 8$ glass of wine. All in all a top day that wasn’t ruined by the rain – it only added to making us feel at home on this first Christmas away from family.
Boxing day
Today were feeling better and it’s a good job because the order of the day is eating and drinking Singapore style. We meet up with our friend Seth from our adventures in Agra – being the top man that he is he greets us with a Christmas gift, it is a brilliant gesture and means we don’t have Christmas without a single present. Seth knows his way round Singapore and starts by taking us for lunch near Arab Street where there is a famous mosque, it is pretty impressive but after India it’s hard to be moved by anything less than spectacular. We sample Malaysian food, in a similar pick and mix style as before, it is delicious and spicy and a real joy to be able to eat it!
We get the tour of Singapore, passing on the way an amazing gothic building which we learn has been purposefully built to resemble Gotham City; it is spectacularly sinister and stands out from all the shinning glass and mirrored structures. We also learn interestingly that feng-shui has a big role to play in the layout of the city, with pointed edges often aimed at empty plots of land or parks because it is considered bad luck to build in line from them. Once were back near Raffles and the built up area we sample a strange local craze called bubble tea. The tea has an unusual taste, somewhere between tea and coffee and it has 100s of weird balls at the bottom of it which are really chewy – it is bizarre to drink and chew and the same time.
We then head to the top floor of the library where you can get a very quiet and free view of the skyline, Seth agrees that it looks like Sim City with all the perfect lines and clean surfaces. We then head for a beer, myself sampling some mee hoon noodle soup complete with minced pork and meat balls. We order some mad strong beer which Kath has to water down with lemonade – seth suggests mixing it with Guinness which sounds pretty hardcore!
A little tipsy we head on for dinner and find the best food court in Singapore, with row after row of stalls selling all kinds of amazing stuff. We have chicken rice, which is strips of chicken with an amazing kind of black bean sauce served with tasty rice, and we also have some Singapore noodle dish with prawns. We finish up by sampling the Durian, not for the faint hearted! The fruit stinks to high heaven, a sort of putrid sewerage smell and this isn’t exactly appetizing. The fruit itself is bizarre, turning into a gooey mess as soon as you tuck into it, parts are pleasant and sweet but some still have the flavour of sewers and rottenness that you get in the smell. All in all I’m glad I tried it but wouldn’t pay for it again, Seth on the other hand loves it, apparently the locals say you can’t beat Durians when it comes to fruit, I disagree!
We part company with Seth and vow to meet again, he is such a laid back and friendly guy, hopefully we can show him round Manchester one day. Afterwards we head back to the hostel to grab our bags and head for the train to Kuala Lumpur. On the way to the train we get lost and end up having to flag the cab but we make it there in the end. The train is even more spacious and comfortable than those in India, with wider berths and quieter carriages. We miss the guys coming round selling chai and samosas though. The only sketchy part of the journey is when we are marched off the train to clear customs, it all is simple enough but a bit confusing when you don’t know what is going on. We have to leave all our stuff on the train and are worried it will leave without us. Fortunately everything is ok and we head off to KL.
We awake to sweaty muggy heat and a room full of random people we don’t know – no stockings and presents – its seems like Santa skips off Singapore when he’s doing his rounds. We don’t need presents though, this whole journey is better than any gift we could have and waking up to sunshine everyday beats a brand new ps3. We get our stuff together and head across town to lavender on the MRT as we have booked in to the drop inn so we can have a nicer private room. I stop on the way at an awesome food court where we get brunch. There are a lot of stands that do a kind of Malay pick and mix where you get a big chunk of rice then you select various meat or veg dishes to accompany it and you pay a small amount for each selection. I get an awesome chicken and pork one, along with some vegetables all for 3$ (£1.50). The hostel is a long way from the station and it takes a while with our bags, the area is very different with a few banks and office buildings and much less nightlife, but still a pretty decent spot.
We c heck in and make use of free wi-fi, watching the final apprentice and sending e-mails etc. The hostel is pretty cool with a good chill out area ad friendly staff. They also let us buy beer from across the road and drink it in there which is good. I’m determined to have a few beers (come on it’s Christmas!) Even if it is super expensive! Around 3 we set off into the city to enjoy Christmas day – I stop at the shops on the way to pick up beers and drink them en route – I make sure I don’t take them on the train though, I’ve already been rollocked twice for trying to have a sip of water, it’s probably the death penalty for beer on the tube!
We head to the Marina bay sands hotel as we have decided to splash out and enjoy ourselves given that it’s Christmas. On the way the skies begin to darken and It looks as if another thunder storm could be on the way. We begrudgingly part with our $40 4ntry fee and head to the elevators to go to the roof. The view from the top doesn’t disappoint – the skyscrapers across the water slowly begin to shine as the daylight fades – lit up they are incandescent testaments to singapore’s wealth and success. The scene is dramatic as orange light turns into sinister dark cloud and thunder and lightning cracks on the horizon. Suddenly the heavens open and the sky flashes and a full on storms breaks loose, a bit scary when you’re in a garden in the sky. We are ushered away from the open areas and forced to seek refuge in the corridors and halls leading between the various areas. Here we see an amazing swimming pool that edges onto the horizon, literally going all the way to the precipice! On looking tourists and ourselves dream that one day we can afford to stay in the hotel and swim there. As the storm worsens and is unrelenting we eventually rush back down to ground level anlong with other disgruntled tourists, we however are delighted – as soon as it started thundering I prayed it would continue, the reason being as our visit was cut short we are entitled to a full refund, and that meant we could afford the luxury of a beer in a bar! Merry Christmas!!
We made the romantic walk back along the bridge and to the Merlion where we were due to eat our Christmas dinner- lightning dramatically flashing across the skyline at regular intervals. We had an amazing view right on the dock where the boats go and the merlion spits water into the bay. The food was good too, roast turkey with stuffing and vegetables, presented in a gourmet style – the only downside was that when I asked for cranberry sauce we just got a bemused look of confusion, still plenty of gravy did the trick and it was top notch, and no washing up! For pudding we had traditional Christmas pudding and custard and it was the highlight of the whole day for me – lush and moist and rich with brandy it was a delight, I ate mine and half of Kath’s and I could have had more! Polish it off with a black coffee and it was a brilliant Christmas dinner in the best setting ever, the storm around us adding to the excitement and atmosphere.
We finished up with a boat ride in the rain to the quayside, the boat captain allowing us the opportunity to drive the boat and pose for photos, sadly though all the pictures were munched by windows #(bummer) so this account while have to help our memory of the night. Due to the rain the bars were quite dead and we end up having a drink in the man utd cafe as it is the cheapest place around and I like looking at the signed shirts and memorabilia. We finish up with drinks back at the hotel – me pushing the boat out for a 8$ glass of wine. All in all a top day that wasn’t ruined by the rain – it only added to making us feel at home on this first Christmas away from family.
Boxing day
Today were feeling better and it’s a good job because the order of the day is eating and drinking Singapore style. We meet up with our friend Seth from our adventures in Agra – being the top man that he is he greets us with a Christmas gift, it is a brilliant gesture and means we don’t have Christmas without a single present. Seth knows his way round Singapore and starts by taking us for lunch near Arab Street where there is a famous mosque, it is pretty impressive but after India it’s hard to be moved by anything less than spectacular. We sample Malaysian food, in a similar pick and mix style as before, it is delicious and spicy and a real joy to be able to eat it!
We get the tour of Singapore, passing on the way an amazing gothic building which we learn has been purposefully built to resemble Gotham City; it is spectacularly sinister and stands out from all the shinning glass and mirrored structures. We also learn interestingly that feng-shui has a big role to play in the layout of the city, with pointed edges often aimed at empty plots of land or parks because it is considered bad luck to build in line from them. Once were back near Raffles and the built up area we sample a strange local craze called bubble tea. The tea has an unusual taste, somewhere between tea and coffee and it has 100s of weird balls at the bottom of it which are really chewy – it is bizarre to drink and chew and the same time.
We then head to the top floor of the library where you can get a very quiet and free view of the skyline, Seth agrees that it looks like Sim City with all the perfect lines and clean surfaces. We then head for a beer, myself sampling some mee hoon noodle soup complete with minced pork and meat balls. We order some mad strong beer which Kath has to water down with lemonade – seth suggests mixing it with Guinness which sounds pretty hardcore!
A little tipsy we head on for dinner and find the best food court in Singapore, with row after row of stalls selling all kinds of amazing stuff. We have chicken rice, which is strips of chicken with an amazing kind of black bean sauce served with tasty rice, and we also have some Singapore noodle dish with prawns. We finish up by sampling the Durian, not for the faint hearted! The fruit stinks to high heaven, a sort of putrid sewerage smell and this isn’t exactly appetizing. The fruit itself is bizarre, turning into a gooey mess as soon as you tuck into it, parts are pleasant and sweet but some still have the flavour of sewers and rottenness that you get in the smell. All in all I’m glad I tried it but wouldn’t pay for it again, Seth on the other hand loves it, apparently the locals say you can’t beat Durians when it comes to fruit, I disagree!
We part company with Seth and vow to meet again, he is such a laid back and friendly guy, hopefully we can show him round Manchester one day. Afterwards we head back to the hostel to grab our bags and head for the train to Kuala Lumpur. On the way to the train we get lost and end up having to flag the cab but we make it there in the end. The train is even more spacious and comfortable than those in India, with wider berths and quieter carriages. We miss the guys coming round selling chai and samosas though. The only sketchy part of the journey is when we are marched off the train to clear customs, it all is simple enough but a bit confusing when you don’t know what is going on. We have to leave all our stuff on the train and are worried it will leave without us. Fortunately everything is ok and we head off to KL.
Sunday, 26 December 2010
singapore dec 23 24
Singapore.
People said three-four days was far too much for Singapore, and if they were talking about the impact on the budget they were right – but in terms of running out of stuff to do; not a chance. You could spend a whole week in Changi International Airport, it has free internet, cinemas, wildlife parks, swimming pool, fitness spa etc etc. I think it was designed to give you an impression of what Singapore is all about, and it succeeds; Singapore is all about futuristic high tech luxury and class. Five star hotels adorn every corner in the marina area – leading to a pyrotechnic skyline the highlight of which is the insane Marina Sands resort, 3 huge towers connected by what looks like a bizarre shipwreck across the top – which we later found contains a park and swimming pool!
It isn’t only high tech and business orientated though, underneath the clean and polished exterior there is a distinct Chinese culturalism bursting out, with street after street of stalls selling amazing foods like turtle soup and pig’s intestine broth, just as a couple of examples. The overall effect is a beautiful city, not in the way of European cities like Bruges or Vienna, but in a truly unique and modern-futuristic way and one which is made all the more amazing given its situation among many less developed counterparts.
23rd December
We head to the Up-Market Marina area without any plan or direction. We find the MRT system so easy to follow, everything is sign posted – your station lights up on the tube map when you reach it, and then led lights indicate which side the doors will open on when you reach there, then on the way out you will be advised exactly which street your exit will take you too with options ABCD indicated on a map. It’s a million miles from India with its chaos and disorder.
We wander past an amazing white cathedral and round to city hall and soon realise the heat here is intense, not what we are used to, but a murky cloudy stifling heat that has you panting and sweating after a few steps. We still aren’t 100% after our illness also, so it takes it out of us. Therefore we just wander with a plan to take it easy today. We stumble across the Esplanade Theatre, a vast spiky mirrored building that reflects the light like a futuristic sonic the hedgehog. We get lost in the vast building with its modern art exhibitions and shopping arcades round every corner. Eventually we reach the roof top and take in the amazing skyline.
We carry on wandering through the afternoon, making a reservation for Christmas dinner and taking pictures whilst dodging tourists at the water spitting lion aptly named the Merlion. We slowly make our way across to the previously mentioned 3 tower shipwreck that we later find is the marina sands. It is quite a mission and we find it costs 20$ each to enter so give it a miss, but we see amazing sights on the way. We pass through a shopping centre on the scale of the Trafford centre, which absolutely oozes spaciousness; unlike any other shopping mall I have seen it has no walls or floors separating the space, just a continuous body of vast emptiness – within which the architect has allowed the odd shopping arcade or elevator. It is elegant to say the least, reminding me of art an art gallery more than a mall. Children ice skate at the bottom of the first building while a river runs through the second – we start to realise this kind of surprising stuff comes as standard in Singapore.
We head back across the bay along the technical marvel that is the double helix bridge, a mass of twisted steel and led lights that is modelled on nature’s greatest achievement a strand of DNA. We eventually get back to the Esplanade where in the amazing outdoor arena we catch a free show by a very unusual band. The chicken shack revival is an all Singaporean blues ensemble with ukulele bass and a mean harmonica, they rock the place and it’s great fun to watch them sing a few Christmas classics.
We head back to our hostel in the Geylang region, which is a colourful area with many amazing food stalls and oriental super-markets. We also see many flush locals getting drunk (pretty extravagant when it costs 10$/£5 for a beer) – there are many strange clubs with big closed off doors the purpose of which we can’t quite decide, maybe it’s nothing but they all seem quite seedy – especially given that scantily clad women seem to hang outside them! We later decide this must be the red light district as lots of provocatively dressed women adorn the street corners. Unfortunately due to our dodgey stomachs we can’t sample the food and have to make do with a burger king! What sacrilege, I can’t wait for my digestion to get back to normal.
Dec 24th
Christmas Eve and we get up and head out downtown once again. I brave some spicy noodle soup for breakfast although Kath’s stomach is still churning – at least Singapore is the best place in the world to have the squits, there are perfectly clean toilets everywhere. We don’t do a great deal this day; check out a lot of the same areas as before really. First thing we head to the train station (quite a mission) to book our night train tickets to Kuala Lumpur which we box off at 40$ each. Then a failed expedition to the beach leads us to Chinatown where I buy a beer from the shop and smuggle it into a coffee shop to save money, No way I’m paying 10$ for a pint! Chinatown is impressive to look at from the outside with amazing pagodas and colourful streets, however look past this facade and you will realise it is over-commercialised and unauthentic – with stall after stall selling tacky fans and I heart Singapore t-shirts: also not a single food hawker in sight, just proper sit down resteraunts at tourist prices.
We check out boat quay by the riverside on the way back and are reminded of Amsterdam or Paris with little cafes and coffee tables covered by verandas, however before we can take much in we are caught in an intense down-pour and people start running for cover. We get our first taste here of Singapore’s erratic and heavy storms, as we instantly become surrounded by a torrent of water. The rain pelts off the plastic coverings and creates a cacophony of sound, it feels like were inside a washing machine on spin-cycle. Reluctantly we bite the bullet and get a beer at the red dot cafe for 8$ (360ml!) I’m not happy, but it is quite romantic as we drink our beers and watch the rain hammer down upon the river – the majestic Fullerton standing across the water.
We head back to the marina once the rain stops and check out the famous Raffles hotel. Smaller than most it makes up for size with grandeur and old fashioned classiness, looking as if it was lifted straight from 1920’s high society. The interior matches the facade with opulent boutiques and a resteraunt which is clearly beyond our price bracket; we also check out the long bar which again looks like some 1920s Victorian bar, however I’m not wearing my smoking jacket so we give it a miss.
Across the way we find a beautiful white church slap bang in the middle of a shopping mall – only in Singapore right – then we try to reach the bar of the Swiss Hotel in order to soak up the view. Unfortunately short sleeves and short legs are apparently a no go and we are refused entry. Oh well, we catch some more live music (Christmas jazz) down at the theatre again and head home early to have a few beers. We catch up on the apprentice via the wi-fi in the hotel and it makes a welcome reminder of home at Christmas time.
People said three-four days was far too much for Singapore, and if they were talking about the impact on the budget they were right – but in terms of running out of stuff to do; not a chance. You could spend a whole week in Changi International Airport, it has free internet, cinemas, wildlife parks, swimming pool, fitness spa etc etc. I think it was designed to give you an impression of what Singapore is all about, and it succeeds; Singapore is all about futuristic high tech luxury and class. Five star hotels adorn every corner in the marina area – leading to a pyrotechnic skyline the highlight of which is the insane Marina Sands resort, 3 huge towers connected by what looks like a bizarre shipwreck across the top – which we later found contains a park and swimming pool!
It isn’t only high tech and business orientated though, underneath the clean and polished exterior there is a distinct Chinese culturalism bursting out, with street after street of stalls selling amazing foods like turtle soup and pig’s intestine broth, just as a couple of examples. The overall effect is a beautiful city, not in the way of European cities like Bruges or Vienna, but in a truly unique and modern-futuristic way and one which is made all the more amazing given its situation among many less developed counterparts.
23rd December
We head to the Up-Market Marina area without any plan or direction. We find the MRT system so easy to follow, everything is sign posted – your station lights up on the tube map when you reach it, and then led lights indicate which side the doors will open on when you reach there, then on the way out you will be advised exactly which street your exit will take you too with options ABCD indicated on a map. It’s a million miles from India with its chaos and disorder.
We wander past an amazing white cathedral and round to city hall and soon realise the heat here is intense, not what we are used to, but a murky cloudy stifling heat that has you panting and sweating after a few steps. We still aren’t 100% after our illness also, so it takes it out of us. Therefore we just wander with a plan to take it easy today. We stumble across the Esplanade Theatre, a vast spiky mirrored building that reflects the light like a futuristic sonic the hedgehog. We get lost in the vast building with its modern art exhibitions and shopping arcades round every corner. Eventually we reach the roof top and take in the amazing skyline.
We carry on wandering through the afternoon, making a reservation for Christmas dinner and taking pictures whilst dodging tourists at the water spitting lion aptly named the Merlion. We slowly make our way across to the previously mentioned 3 tower shipwreck that we later find is the marina sands. It is quite a mission and we find it costs 20$ each to enter so give it a miss, but we see amazing sights on the way. We pass through a shopping centre on the scale of the Trafford centre, which absolutely oozes spaciousness; unlike any other shopping mall I have seen it has no walls or floors separating the space, just a continuous body of vast emptiness – within which the architect has allowed the odd shopping arcade or elevator. It is elegant to say the least, reminding me of art an art gallery more than a mall. Children ice skate at the bottom of the first building while a river runs through the second – we start to realise this kind of surprising stuff comes as standard in Singapore.
We head back across the bay along the technical marvel that is the double helix bridge, a mass of twisted steel and led lights that is modelled on nature’s greatest achievement a strand of DNA. We eventually get back to the Esplanade where in the amazing outdoor arena we catch a free show by a very unusual band. The chicken shack revival is an all Singaporean blues ensemble with ukulele bass and a mean harmonica, they rock the place and it’s great fun to watch them sing a few Christmas classics.
We head back to our hostel in the Geylang region, which is a colourful area with many amazing food stalls and oriental super-markets. We also see many flush locals getting drunk (pretty extravagant when it costs 10$/£5 for a beer) – there are many strange clubs with big closed off doors the purpose of which we can’t quite decide, maybe it’s nothing but they all seem quite seedy – especially given that scantily clad women seem to hang outside them! We later decide this must be the red light district as lots of provocatively dressed women adorn the street corners. Unfortunately due to our dodgey stomachs we can’t sample the food and have to make do with a burger king! What sacrilege, I can’t wait for my digestion to get back to normal.
Dec 24th
Christmas Eve and we get up and head out downtown once again. I brave some spicy noodle soup for breakfast although Kath’s stomach is still churning – at least Singapore is the best place in the world to have the squits, there are perfectly clean toilets everywhere. We don’t do a great deal this day; check out a lot of the same areas as before really. First thing we head to the train station (quite a mission) to book our night train tickets to Kuala Lumpur which we box off at 40$ each. Then a failed expedition to the beach leads us to Chinatown where I buy a beer from the shop and smuggle it into a coffee shop to save money, No way I’m paying 10$ for a pint! Chinatown is impressive to look at from the outside with amazing pagodas and colourful streets, however look past this facade and you will realise it is over-commercialised and unauthentic – with stall after stall selling tacky fans and I heart Singapore t-shirts: also not a single food hawker in sight, just proper sit down resteraunts at tourist prices.
We check out boat quay by the riverside on the way back and are reminded of Amsterdam or Paris with little cafes and coffee tables covered by verandas, however before we can take much in we are caught in an intense down-pour and people start running for cover. We get our first taste here of Singapore’s erratic and heavy storms, as we instantly become surrounded by a torrent of water. The rain pelts off the plastic coverings and creates a cacophony of sound, it feels like were inside a washing machine on spin-cycle. Reluctantly we bite the bullet and get a beer at the red dot cafe for 8$ (360ml!) I’m not happy, but it is quite romantic as we drink our beers and watch the rain hammer down upon the river – the majestic Fullerton standing across the water.
We head back to the marina once the rain stops and check out the famous Raffles hotel. Smaller than most it makes up for size with grandeur and old fashioned classiness, looking as if it was lifted straight from 1920’s high society. The interior matches the facade with opulent boutiques and a resteraunt which is clearly beyond our price bracket; we also check out the long bar which again looks like some 1920s Victorian bar, however I’m not wearing my smoking jacket so we give it a miss.
Across the way we find a beautiful white church slap bang in the middle of a shopping mall – only in Singapore right – then we try to reach the bar of the Swiss Hotel in order to soak up the view. Unfortunately short sleeves and short legs are apparently a no go and we are refused entry. Oh well, we catch some more live music (Christmas jazz) down at the theatre again and head home early to have a few beers. We catch up on the apprentice via the wi-fi in the hotel and it makes a welcome reminder of home at Christmas time.
Friday, 24 December 2010
Merry Christmas
For all our friends and family out there just want to wish you a merry christmas. Here in singapore it's a sweaty humid day - and i might have to admit i even miss the cold weather a little bit today. Hope you all got what you wanted!
We managed to book christmas dinner right by the famous merelion down amongst the amazing singapore harbour with views of the futuristic skyline. We aren't getting each other presents but were treating ourselves to some nice things, which in singapore is pretty expensive, we might even buy a pint in a bar which at 7£ is no small gift! It's a good place to be for crimble though, with a few christmas trees and carol singers and everything. Will post more about it later.
HAVE A GREAT DAY EVERYBODY!!!!
From Tim and Kath
We managed to book christmas dinner right by the famous merelion down amongst the amazing singapore harbour with views of the futuristic skyline. We aren't getting each other presents but were treating ourselves to some nice things, which in singapore is pretty expensive, we might even buy a pint in a bar which at 7£ is no small gift! It's a good place to be for crimble though, with a few christmas trees and carol singers and everything. Will post more about it later.
HAVE A GREAT DAY EVERYBODY!!!!
From Tim and Kath
Thursday, 23 December 2010
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)