Elephant Ride

Having previously missed out on the elephant ride today’s mission is to get back to amber and ride the elephant up to the palace. First though we stop in the gym we saw the night before. It is dark and poorly air conditioned but we manage to have a good workout, although the guy insists on making me do his programme of exercises as if I have never used a gym before. Kath goes on the tread while I get put through an arduous series of abdominal workouts, then they get us to pose for pictures with their champion body builder. The guys aren’t as big as they are in the U.K but they like to show off, flexing as they pose for a picture: it is a strange experience, but worthwhile - I ache like hell the next morning.
After breakfast (lots of eggs) we get a rickshaw for the day, the driver we learn spends half the year in France playing accordion at festivals – pretty unusual. We first stop at the monkey temple; an old Hindu temple to the sun atop a high hill which is over-run by monkeys. The trek is a welcome retreat from the chaos of the city and the temple itself is small but refreshingly empty and tranquil. We give the friendly lady who lives in the temple a donation and she tries to sell us some stuff, but she is very polite and lovely, giving us a simple good luck bracelet made of yellow and red thread and putting a dot of red paint on our foreheads. On the way back down we see a holy man who poses for a picture with Kath and smiles when we give him ten rupees; a refreshing change from many of the cheeky beggars who demand more or run off to get there mates when you give them something. We also get some good pictures with the monkeys and the panoramic view of the city.
When we get to amber the elephants have all gone home, disappointed we think we will miss out and Kathy pulls a sad face which breaks my heart. However we find out that if we hang around for 2 hours the rides start again at 3.30, so we have chai and samosas and kill some time. The elephant ride itself is invigorating and the best fun we’ve had so far on the entire trip. The gentle beasts line up in a sort of paddock at the bottom of the hill, each one with different paintings on their trunks and ears. The driver sits on their neck and gently kicks the ears to make them move while we sit on top of a sort of mattress made of various rugs and sheets that adorns the elephant’s back. The elephant is shimmied up to a platform about 10 feet high where we gingerly climb aboard. Imagine traversing a series of speed humps on a penny farthing bicycle and you get an idea of the ride; great fun though as you get a rush of adrenaline, perhaps as you realise you could easily fall off and be trampled by this massive force beneath you. As we pass through the palace gates we pretend we are the royal couple in some bygone day; elephant is certainly a majestic way to travel. It really is a new experience and one that makes me realise how lucky we are to be on this journey; riding an elephant is something everyone should do before they die.
We stop at the markets back in jaipur and make our way to the restaurants; I haven’t ate meat for ages and am desperate to find somewhere witch chicken this evening. On the way we fancy a beer but can’t find a bar so we buy a beer in a shop; I ask if it is ok to drink in the streets, he says no but lets us sit on some crates at the back of his shop and drink up while other customers give us shady looks from the counter. We walk for ages but it is worth it; stumbling upon a cosy restaurant called Handi. Encouragingly chefs grill kebabs on hot charcoal as we enter and the carnivore within me begins to salivate with delight. I thought I could handle vegetarianism – but obviously not!
The meal is exquisite, better than any curry I have ever had in England. The balance of heat and flavour in the mutton handi is perfect, with fragrant cumin and anise complimenting hot chill and cool coriander. I get a half a tandoori chicken which puts Nandos to shame and roti comes out so warm and fresh that it falls apart laden with gorgeous filling, a wicked meal to top off one of the best days ever, India is absolutely incredible.