Today we are determined not to get taken off track and waste time with these scammers so we are up early (I feel like shit from the beers) and we get straight to the train station. Here we sort out all are tickets, this takes approx 1 hour as each time you need to fill in a form and submit it to a desk for completion, but all in all its pretty hassle free. We eat again at the curry place across the road, this time it is even better – more spicy but we thing we lay off the street vendors for a while after we see a rat scurry under the table in front.
We hire a tuk-tuk to the old town and tell him no shops etc, 2 times previous we have been blagged into going into shops against our will but this time we are ok. We get to the Ref Fort – Lal Qila, it is spectacular from the outside, with tremendous red walls towering above the chaotic streets. We pay 250 to go inside and it is a good experience, although somewhat not what we expected, there is a tranquillity and beauty inside as well maintained gardens and ancient buildings are secluded from the chaos outside. There is a run of the mill museum inside, but generally it is well worth a visit and a welcome peaceful walk through the gardens does us the world of good.
After we get a bicycle rickshaw to take us to the magnificent mosque which divides old Delhi. I feel bad as the old man huffs and puffs with us on the back while we relax and take in the sights. Old Delhi is even crazier, the traffic barely moves as people and bicycles choke the streets and bring them to a standstill. The buildings are even more primitive and derelict in appearance, few having doors or windows and most having an unbelievable number of layers. One building is built upon another until you can see a mass of dwellings all upon one another spiralling on forever. No wonder Delhi is the most densely populated country in the world.
The mosque is the most beautiful sight I have seen so far in India. Unsurpassed until the Taj Mahal. It is eloquently placed in the midst of such absolute chaos, but it echoes with peace and calm. The main dome is fantastic white structure above the dusty browns of the city and the two towers stand tall above the skyline, the tallest things in sight. I am not religious but can feel the power of the building in the midst of such a busy place, as within all is calm and quiet and people are respectful. We go up the tower to the top and look out over the city for a fantastic view of the red fort and the old towns winding streets. We learn that north of the mosque is Hindu only, and the south reserved for Muslims: Interesting how in this city unlike others, different religions live so harmoniously.
We take a walk through the market bazaars of Old Delhi and it is intense. The streets are alive with activity, like New Delhi but tenfold. Here the sprawling wires and makeshift shops are haywire and haphazard how it all works is a mystery as cable after cable engulfs the skyline and ramshackle signs in English are the only hint of normality in what can only be explained as organised chaos. It looks like Victorian England but with a bit of crude technology thrown in as person after person lines the bazaar and ambitious motorcyclist weave in and out of the pedestrians. We drink some massala chai and eat some strange potato thing while other less adventurous tourists just watch and take pictures.
All in all this was a great day, now settled in we have less hassle and finally do some proper tourism.
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